The Real Millcreek (yes, the one in Moab)

One of my favorite crags is Millcreek. It is a sport climbers haven with absolutely beautiful rock, over 2500 climbs, no guide book and absolutely no climbing traffic. But what I really like is the fact that I can barely climb there. The whole canyon is chock full of sport routes that range in the 5.12 and above range. I haven’t even red-pointed a 5.12 yet; hell, I haven’t even gotten an 11d yet. But something about the challenge of it being out of my realm, this beautiful rock just taunting me, makes me love it even more.

I had an Irish friend, who I will reference to as H.I.P.#1, come visit me a couple weeks back. I wanted to show him as many Utah ‘highlights’ as I could, so felt that Millcreek was a definite necessity. So we headed to Moab along with my friend the grayhghost (GG). Not only was it cold, the newspapers said it was a record low! Did this deter us… hell no. The GG and I love Millcreek, even when we have to wade through shin deep snow to get to the crag.

We got there fairly late in the game and only had time for the boys to do one route, but it was great just being there. The best part was, I think H.I.P. #1 is now a fellow lover of Millcreek.

  • Outdoor junkie
    yes, I am converted, it's awesome there!
    And amusingly, there's a 'climbing' magazine on Ton Sai beach in one of the coffee shops with a list of USA "secret crags". It lists Mill Creek for Utah!
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