The CragBaby

Today as I went out for one of my 1/2 marathon training runs I started to think about the power of thought. This is a common contemplation as I truly believe I haven’t been able to hit a 12a redpoint yet due to my inability to push through the mental block of feeling tired. I noticed that the mental block isn’t due to the fear of the fall, but really is that I
a) think I am too tired and take the fall or
b) really am tired but refuse to take a good rest and rather just try to push to the top.

If I am too tired and genuinely take the fall is fine. However, if I am falling because I haven’t taken a rest is a problem. I often catch myself not taking these rests as I feel like I am not recovering while resting due to the point that I am still exerting energy and can only shake one arm at a time. The silly part is if I take a fall, I can rest briefly and hop back on and finish the route.

I was thinking about this today as I was running because I hit a similar mental block when I am doing a solo run. I have a horrible habit of walking during these solo runs because I feel tired, mentally want to stop because I am bored and due to the point that there isn’t anyone pushing me. Today I did a little mental test where instead of letting myself walk when I hit this block, I would slow my pace down to a walk pace but still be “jogging” and just focus on catching my breath and clearing my head (similar to what I would be doing while resting on a climb). The conclusion was that this slower pace completely helped me recover and I was able to finish off the run quite easily.

Even though rests on a climb aren’t always available like the opportunity to slow down during a run, it still compares in the sense that I need to realize that these rests are actually helping me recover though I am still exerting energy.

These mental blocks are noticeable in my hobbies and I wouldn’t be surprised at all if the same mental block is affecting other areas of my life. Perhaps I can slowly implement it to all areas of my life by beginning with my runs.

The local climbing season officially started for me this past Sunday (though it is supposed to snow this week so it will be on hold again). Ms. Pear, Stone Face Killah, the Grayhghost and I hit up the Speedtrap in Big Cottonwood. The Speedtrap is a great little crag as it has ZERO approach, is only 2 miles up the canyon (making it a perfect after work crag), is overhanging (equaling clean falls) and the routes are a bit harder (one 5.10, two 5.11’s and two 5.12’s).

I climb in Big Cottonwood extensively during the climbing season, but it is amazing how it takes me a couple routes to get used to the unique break lines of the quartzite again. I hopped on the 5.10 to warm up and ended up with a flash pump and was pretty cautious due to the odd bolt placement. Next the whole crew ran the 5.11d, an absolutely stellar climb with clean falls and accurately placed bolts, and the Stone Face Killah bagged the redpoint. The grayhghost hopped on one of the 5.12b’s, redpointing it on his second run, and the Stone Face Killah and I both gave it a go. I was able to do all the moves and made it to the chains, but I had many falls on the way up.

Overall a great first day in Big Cottonwood.

I have been wanting to go to Cafe Madrid for a couple years now and have never made it until this past weekend. My friend Sam was in town and we had planned to go to dinner, so after a toss of the coin we were off to Cafe Madrid.

The restaurant is located on 3900 South and is right in between Black Diamond and Rockreation. The cuisine is Spanish, with the majority of awards it has received being given for the tapas and flan. Sam and I shared four different tapas, deciding that the seafood stuff peppers were the best, and then followed the meal up with a piece of flan.

The European atmosphere, the quaint location and the amazing food (plus the added great company of my friend) combined to create a dining experience worth five stars.

I love to support the local Utah artists and find it surprising the talent that has come out of Utah: Jewel, Kalai, Lyrics Born, Peter Breinholt, Joshua James, Kurt Bestor, bass player for The Used…… I have two friends, brothers actually, who are from my hometown of Price who have cds on the market.

I have been friends with Sam Bailey for years and genuinely enjoy his unique work. I suppose is music would be labeled as folk with his humor and intelligence being mirrored in each song. His cd, “Prelude to a Bus Ride” can be bought at Orion Music in Sugarhouse or checked out from the Salt Lake downtown library. The whole cd is fantastic, but my personal favorites are “Proposal #2″ and “Bachelor’s Lament”. Sam isn’t focusing on his music at this time, but his cd still ranks as one of my favorites. Every once in a while I am lucky and I can catch Sam on his trips to Salt Lake …. and when I am really, really lucky he has his guitar in hand. He plays a mean version of “Little Red Riding Hood”, but it is an extremely rare occasion that I can get him to bust that one out.

His younger brother Ben is also a musician and is currently focusing on his music. I purchased the cd online and received it in the mail just yesterday. His music is completely different than Sam’s in the sense of tone and music structure (Ben’s music is mostly more of a slower tempo and more serious than Sam’s tunes), but similar in the sense that they are both thought provoking. Ben is on myspace under Poetry for the Masses and currently has one cd released called “Tale Tell Heart”. The cd is great with my favorite songs being “Expectation / Realization” and “Hope”. The bonus track of “Bloodstain” is great as well. If you want to hear the full track of “Expectation / Realization” go to my personal myspace page as it is the song on my profile at this time.

If interested in the local artists in the community or want to just listen to some good tunes… check them out.

At the beginning of March I blogged about the upcoming SLCA comp that I am lucky enough to have the opportunity to organize. As a reminder to you all, the comp supports the Salt Lake Climbing Alliance which is the only climbing group in Salt Lake and actively participate in keeping our climbing areas clean and the routes well bolted. The comp is…..

I am not going to lie…. hearing the KCPW pledge drive on the radio drives me crazy! However, due to the pledge drive I get to participate in one of the best volunteer experiences of the year. You wouldn’t think that answering phones to take pledges would be so enjoyable, but it is. It actually might be my favorite volunteer gig because the people who work and volunteer at a public radio station pledge drives are usually well informed people with passion for changing the world. Every time I volunteer I meet the most interesting people and learn about new organizations and ideas.

If you haven’t pledged to KCPW before (or if you are already a member), I would urge you to support the programming through this drive. You can pledge by calling 801-359-5279 or by pledging online.

Or, if you want to have the best volunteer experience of your life, fill out this online form to get involved.

Yesterday I received an email from the Environmental Advisor to the Mayor (I signed up for some mailing list a while ago) that said there will be an environmental festival on April 14 in accordance with Step it Up 2007 (reference my previous blog). The festival will include live music, speakers, activists and community leaders in order “to call on congress to act immediately to formulate comprehensive policy to reduce global warming pollutants by 80% by the year 2050.” The festival will be taking place from 3 - 7 pm on April 14th at the City County Building. I apologize as I have not yet seen a link to a website for more information but will keep this blog apprised with the details.

This year I was greatly disappointed with the amount of snow we received here in Utah. Utah is known for its face shots of powder, but this year those face shot days totaled perhaps a mere 6 or 7 days. However, when one season is suffering, another is usually in full swing.

I have been refraining on going away every weekend on a climbing trip, like I do in the summer, in order to focus on my full and part time jobs. However, this past weekend I busted on both jobs during the week so that I could head down to my favorite canyon …. Millcreek.

I drove down with the Grayhghost and CB, meeting up with Perky, V, #11, Tall B, Climber Doc and Medium B at the Mondo coffee shop. We all cruised up to Millcreek to the Wicked Crag where we flirted with the moderates and I tangoed with the ‘Black Widow’, which beat me on both my redpoint attempts.

#11 and the backside of Tall B.

Me, Perky and V.

The Grayhghost gave a run on Aesthetics (the wall behind me in the picture above) and redpointed the ‘BowSpritz’ with Perky. The night finished off with Grayhghost and Perky smashing a wet ‘Injustice for All’ in the dark.

The next day our crew had dispersed and the Grayhghost and I did some climbs in Horse Creek Canyon. I was a little tired and so followed a stemmy 10 and one of the best 11’s (that 11 definitely needs to be re-done for a redpoint. Sheer magic!). We met up with some Flagstaff folks and the Grayhghost was able to run some classic routes while shooting photos of some impressive onsights.

One of the Flagstaff guys on ‘Bow Spritz’.

The trip was great, and CB was completely tuckered out.

I am a huge goal setter and today I hit a goal that I have been diligently working on for the last year and half. I don’t want to give the details of my goal as it was somewhat personal, but just wanted to mention that today (March 19) needs to be noted as one of the best days of the year 2007. Yay!

Ten Thousand Villages has found a new location as the Sugarhouse area will soon be going under some construction. Please note that the new location is 1941 E 1100 South and that they will make the move within the next couple months. In the meantime, please visit them in their normal location next to Fat’s Grill.