The CragBaby

The Grayhghost and I cruised down to American Fork yesterday to get in some climbs. My left foot is still in a boot, but our idea was that I could get on a top rope on some steep, easy climbs.

We decided to go to the Membrane wall as it is steep with a couple 10’s. However, the log and rope that grant access across the river had been removed, so in order to get to the other side the Grayhghost gave me a piggy-back ride (one time we came really close to going in the stream) and then went back for the bags and dog. Yeah, the Grayhghost is seriously a trooper!

I quickly learned how tricky it is to climb with a boot on my foot. The climbs that are usually my warms-ups had turned into a top-rope, bolt to bolt extravaganza. At first I was pretty bummed, but soon learned to enjoy just being able to do the climbing movement again.

The most exciting climb of the day was when the Grayghost decided to up and DOWN climb License to Thrill. It was seriously amazing to watch, especially since I haven’t even nailed the redpoint on that one yet.

Good times soaking up vitamin D from the sun and letting the little one (the Cragbaby) run wild.

After a week of RICE (rest, ice, compression and elevation) the ankle was still throbbing to the point that I was honestly doing lamaze breathing in my cubicle on Monday to take my mind off the pain. I decided it was time to go into the doctors… and sure enough the ankle has a small fracture. They put me in a splint, told me I had to stay on crutches and this week I have to go get a cast. They told me it will take 4 - 6 weeks to heal. I am seriously perma-pouting. =(

This past weekend I went to a splendid event at the Salt Lake Arts Center. Vivace and the Young Benefactors had teamed up to create an event that included an art tour through the Salt Lake Arts Center plus performances from the upcoming Grapes of Wrath Opera. It was a great experience where I learned a lot about the art and enjoyed listener to the composer of the Opera, plus was completely free.

The Utah Symphony and Opera is in the midst of the American Horizons Festival that focuses on three different themes: the Grapes of Wrath Events, Messiaen Week and Broadway Celebration. There are a number of events and a number of art exhibits and local shops involved.

The events I plan on trying to attend include (and would love to have any of you readers join me):

• April 27 & 28 - 8pm - Abravanel Hall - The Utah Symphony will perform of the Messiaen’s From the Canyon to the Stars…
• May 10 at noon - Sam Weller’s Bookstore - “Enjoy selections from The Grapes of Wrath during your lunch break.
• May 11 - 7 pm - Sam Weller’s Bookstore - The Grapes of Wrath Book discussion - this means that I should probably hurry and read the book. =)
• May 12 - 18 - The performance of The Grapes of Wrath Opera. I would really like to see the Opera; however, it is 4 hours long! I notice I have a hard time after 3 hours… so I am still deciding if I should go.
• May 21 - 6pm - City Library Auditorium - A showing of the John Ford’s adaptation of The Grapes of Wrath.

Time magazine had a great article in the April 9th edition titled, “51 Things You Can Do to Make a Difference.” The article spelled out 51 things that everyday people, scientists and governments could due to offset carbon emissions. Out of the list, 29 were applicable to the everyday person and could implemented now. Some of them, like “Skip the Steak” or “Move to a high rise”, were surprising at first. Each is listed below along with the impact (out of 10).

• Change your lightbulbs - implement compact fluorescent lightbulbs with the Energy Savers label. Impact = 2.
• Get blueprints for a green house - if thinking about building a house, simply planning energy savings into the blueprint can save 40% of energy costs. Impact = 6.
• Light up your city - If you city is still using normal lightbulbs rather than LED’s. Contact your mayor and ask why. Impact = 4.
• Ditch the McMansion - Large houses require lots of energy, so one should live only in the space needed. Impact = 5. That is a pretty large impact for simply cutting back on wasted space.
• Hang up a clothesline - Even if you don’t want to use a clothesline, just washing clothes on colder cycles or not driving as long saves energy. If buying appliances, look for energy efficient models. Impact = 2.
• Give new life to your old fleece - Patagonia collects used clothing made from Polartec and Capilene to melt and reuse. Impact = 2.
• Vintage clothing - buying vintage or used clothing saves on the energy used to create new clothing. Impact = 2.
• Letting employees work close to home - This obviously cuts down the fuel needed to get to work. Impact = 6.
• Ride the bus - Riding the bus helps to subside the carbon dioxide released from transportation (30% of US emissions). Impact = 7.
• Move to a high-rise - the article states that the greenest people live in New York because they often don’t own a car, ride a bike or walk everywhere and live in compact areas that require less of a commute. Impact = 7.
• Pay our bills online - Not only does this cut down on paper use, but rids the need to transport the letter. Impact = 3.
• Open a window - Rather than using AC, opening a window has an impact of 5.
• Buy green power - Power companies, like Rocky Mountain Power, have the option of using green power for you home. Impact = 6.
• Check the label - buy items with the Energy Star. Impact = 3.
• Cozy up to your water heater - putting an insulating blanket around your heater prevents lost heat. Impact - 2.5.
• Skip the Steak - The article poses the questions, “Which is responsible for more global warming: your BMW or your Big Mac? Believe it or not, it the burger.” This is actually due to the manure and the cow waste. Vegetarian lifestyle gets an impact of 5.
• Just say no to plastic bags - Only 3% of the 500 billion plastic bags are recycled. Skipping the plastic bags has an impact of 5.5. If you have a pet and need bags to pick up waste, there are bio-degradable ones available through petshops.
• Buy local - buying things from local farmers reduces the transportation energy used. Impact = 5.
• Remove the tie - Japan laxed the business dress code and set office temperatures to a fixed 82.4 degrees in the summer. This small changed cut an estimated 79,000 tons of CO2. Impact = 6.
• Shut off your computer - Unplug or shut off all electronics when not in use. Impact = 3.
• Wear green eye shadow - It is possible to buy makeup that is 100% biodegradable (plastic tube, wrapping, etc). Impact = 2.
• Kill the lights at quitting time - Offices should have a pre-set time when the lights kick off. Impact = 4.
• Rake the fall colors - rather than using a leaf blower, a rake can save energy. Impact = 2.
• End the paper chase - Americans recycled 42m tons of paper last year, equaling 50% of what we use. Buying products with recycled paper saves 60% of energy costs. Impact = 5.
• Think outside the packaging - give back extra napkins or unused sugar packets. Even take your own cup to Starbucks. Impact = 4.
• Fill’er up with Passengers - carpool! Impact = 4.
• Make your garden grow- using alternatives to fertilizer, such as compost or cut grass, or planting wildflowers has an impact of 2.
• Check your tires - Maintaining your vehicle (changing the air filter, keeping tires filled, giving the engine a tune-up) can increase mileage, resulting in decreased CO2 emission. Impact = 4.
• Make one right turn after another - UPS has starting using routes that allow drivers to only make right turns as to avoid having to idle while waiting for a left turn. Impact = 2.

The last one is my favorite as I really try to live a simple life.

• Consume less, share more, live simply - “The chance to buy a carbon offset - in essence, an emissions indulgence - appeals to the environmental sinner in all of us. But there is an older path to reducing our impact on the planet that will feel familiar to Evangelical Christians and Buddhists alike. Live simply. Meditate. Consume less. Think more. Get to know your neighbors. Borrow when you need to and lend when asked. E. F. Schumacher prasied that philosophy this way in Small Is Beautiful: ‘Amazingly small means leading to extraordinarily satisfying results.” Impact = 6.

Today was the 2007 Salt Lake Half Marathon. I have been anticipating this day and was extremely excited to run. However…… with the newly sprained ankle there was no way I could run (trust me… I tried…. wrapped it up real tight, but still no go). I was going to give my spot away, but I just really wanted to be a part of the race. I mean I had even trained for this one! So…. I got some crutches and crutched the first mile. It was fun and I felt like I was part of the event… and now I have a black and blue, swollen foot and sore underarms. =)

My friend, Ms. Pear, ran it and finished with a 1:53. Good job!

Hey fellow climbers! If you have ever in your life used a bolt or pre-placed anchor, I would urge you to come support the Salt Lake Climber’s Alliance in their annual fundraiser comp and party. Not only will it be a ton of fun with a DJ, food from Ricos, lots of beer and tons of schwag, but all the proceeds will help with bolt and anchor replacement in our local canyons.

Date: Thursday, May 3
Time: Comp goes from 4:30 - 7:30 and party starts at 7:00 and goes until the beer runs out. Yes… this does mean you can start drinking while finishing up climbing.
Where: The Front Climbing Gym at 1450 South 400 West
Cost: $30 for Comp and Party (however, you get $5 off for pre-registering and $5 off if you are a Front member). $15 for party only ($5 off for pre-registering and the Front is covering the cost for all their members). $10 for spectator passes.
Register at www.frontslc.com

Even if you can’t make it, please consider donating through the above link. There isn’t a donation box, but you can just purchase a comp or party ticket even if you won’t be there.

Thanks for your support and for keeping climbing safe!

That’s right folks… I am sporting a cankle. So, I am looking for a guy who thinks the cankle is sexy. Anyone? Anyone? And in case you can’t tell in the picture below, it is the LEFT ankle that is hurt… not the right.

This past week was a weird one in climbing. Wednesday I climbed in a blizzard, Saturday I somehow hiked around for about 4 hours but only worked 4 easy problems and then Sunday I went sport climbing and came home with a sprained ankle. Not my best week in climbing, but still part of climbing.

Three short films produced by local film producers will be shown together at the Tower this next Monday and Wednesday.

Dates: Monday, April 16 7PM, Wednesday, April 18, 9pm
Where: The Tower
Cost: $7

I would like to go on one night, so let me know if any of you are interested.

Movie Descriptions:
Eureka! features poet Sharon Byran’s journey into memory. Set in the gold and silver mining town of Eurkea Utah, the ghosts of the past come alive in ths lyrical documentary.

He’s quiet. He’s reserved. He’s thoughful. And he really likes to play with FIRE. See Nate and his fire artistry in What Lights Nate.

A hike in the mountains led to The Oldest Tree, a tale of time, modern man, and a bristlecone pine called Prometheus.

Bouldering in Little Cottonwood (LCC) is known to be pretty stout and all the holds to be little crystals. I am not a big boulderer and have never been able to pull anything in LCC, but thought I would give it another try as the Grayhghost just hooked me up with my very own bouldering pad with a hand drawn graphic he had done. Unfortunately I forgot to take a pic of the new pad, so that will have to come in another post.

The Grayghost and I headed up on Thursday to the Gate and the Riverside boulders and for the first time in my life I was able to get up something harder than a V0 in LCC. I was genuinely surprised and actually had a great time.

So I headed back up on Saturday, meeting up with #11, the Orange and a boy posse, where we climbed in Secret Garden and once again at the Riverside boulders.

Sunday I cruised up LCC again to meet up with the Orange, the same boy posse, TB and his brother and Scott (I guess I don’t have a nickname for Scott). We played around at Cabbage Patch, looked for the East Gate boulders (with no success) and finished off at the Gate.

Perhaps this rope-less type of climbing is ok after all.

A four woman posse headed up to the Challenger Buttress this past week to run up a couple routes. The routes were fun cruisers and hanging out with the girls was undoubtedly a good time. The night ended with a little epic as the darkness approached before our last climber was to the top. Good times…. good times!