I have been wanting to hop on the uber classic route “All Chalk and No Action” for quite awhile as many people have mentioned that it would be my style (crimpy!). A couple weekends ago the crew and I headed up LCC for the first battle.
The Route Slayer on a TR run of “All Chalk and No Action”.
The Route Slayer, Gunner, BinerBen and I all did about 3 laps on TR, assessing out the holds. Next time I go back, I will probably need to do a couple more top rope runs prior to hopping on lead. The climb is CRIMPY with two distinct crux moves and I think a fall from the last bolt going to the chains could be “exciting”.
Grace climbing a funky 5.9.
The boys: Shaft, Gunner, Tallman, BinerBen. LCC was beautiful this day. The temps were perfect for LCC granite climbing, but warm enough to cause two avalanches across the canyon.
Ms. Unicorn gets the hardcore high five for the day. This girl just started climbing and has NO FEAR. Even though she is a noob, she hopped on the 5.12 to “give it a try” and ended up with a bloody finger. She then hopped on a TR that was on “Perhaps” and after unclipping the bolt (for anyone who has done this climb you know that bolt on the slab) fell and took a pendulum swing, ripping her pants, that scared everyone on the ground, but not her. Hard core!
The Route Slayer on one of the warm ups. The climbing on this problem is easy, but the height can be quite mental. As Shaft would say, “It’s NOT over!” =)
Me on the Chipped Arete Variation. Fun.
Triznut crushing “Fat Albert”. It is amazing how this climb feels so much more do–able in the right temps.
HA HA HA! Check out the determination! This might be the worst photo of me EVER, but that look and my beloved heel hook helped me pull “Salad”, completing my second V5. I completed my third, a great undercling one at the Parking Lot, about a week later. I was so psyched!
As usual, the grateful list is accompanied by a pretty picture. This one is from Holland.
Pretty cranky today. I think it is the combination of busy full-time job + finals in school + being sick + never feeling like I can get enough done within 24 hours of the day + perhaps some leftover stress from the last month (dissolution of family, moving, health issues, getting used to living with kids, etc). The key to crankiness evaporation is a grateful list. So as I sit in my last Java class (thank goodness. I really liked this class and especially liked the teacher, but this class just moved too quickly for me as I struggled to grasp the language at the rate expected), I am going to write ten things for which I am grateful.
I am grateful for all that I have learned in school, even though it has been rough fitting it in with my work schedule. I think I have an American mentality in the sense that I feel as if I am always supposed to be working…. watching all trends, always learning and never being inefficient. Whew. I am exhausted. I hit the exhaustion wall right around the time I had to move into my new house. Regardless, I am glad I took these computer science classes for the sole reason that I really believe I picked up some knowledge that was helpful in my deal screening at work.
I am grateful for people who take the time to read my blogs. My blogs are pretty silly, so I must have some good friends out there, but I appreciate them. I also appreciate the spare time people take to comment and give trackbacks. Thank you.
I feel like I am going to cry today. I am grateful that this feeling comes on rare occasion. Now, I just need to figure out how to avoid bawling in front of someone.
I am grateful for my new bike, the Free Spirit. Blog post about this beauty is coming soon.
I am grateful that this CS Teacher of mine really is quite humorous. The class might move too quickly for me, but he really does provide the best examples. It makes me smile.
I am grateful that winter is almost over and spring is budding.
I am grateful that I soon will be able to climb more than once per week again. I miss climbing and being able to blow off steam by clipping bolts.
I am grateful that my friend the Route Slayer had the chance to run in the Boston Marathon. Not only did she get to participate, but she finished in the time of 3 hours and 46 minutes. I am real proud of her. She is a rockstar!
I am grateful for the funniest email I just received from Steve Spencer. He was putting out positive vibes for me and my java class and is was written in such a humorous manner. =)
I am grateful that through this blog post I was able to contain my emotions. Perhaps I can now talk to my teacher after class without my mascara running. =)
My friend HIP #1 introduced me to English indie rock band The Kooks last year through the Inside In/Inside Out album. I really, really dig the album! Every song is great, but I especially enjoy the song "Ooh La". Check it out!
I strive to volunteer on a weekly basis but am looking for some new volunteer opportunities. The places with which I currently affiliate my time include:
ARUP - I like to donate platelets on a bi-weekly basis, albeit I feel well. This is my favorite volunteer service because by sitting and watching a movie, I can directly impact a life. I choose to donate through ARUP because all donations are used at the local hospitals and very rarely do they receive enough donations to fulfill demand.
Climbing - During the summer I like to donate a climbing day a week to taking out climbing newbies. I do this because I used to be one of those newbies who couldn’t find a partner. And it sucks. By taking them out I can still have a beautiful day in the outdoors, teach proper safety techniques (keeping the climbing community safe) and allow someone else to enjoy the sport I love.
KCPW - I volunteer often during the KCPW pledge drives. KCPW is Salt Lake’s independent national public radio station (that barely escaped from being turned into a Christin station. Thank you again KCPW board members). I really love the programming, the KCPW crew and the point that they brought the BBC to its own frequency so that listeners could have BBC news 24/7. This volunteer opportunity is only on a semi-annual basis.
Ten Thousand Villages - I used to volunteer weekly with Ten Thousand Villages but have now put this on the back burner. I still really like the organization, but didn’t feel completely needed when I was there. I felt as if I didn’t show, the job would still get done… so why not spend my time elsewhere?
I have also looked into working with the Literacy Center of Utah, but have not started on with them as I just think the time commitment is too much for me to take on right now. I have also looked into NAMI (the National Alliance of Mental Illness). I was so jazzed when I found NAMI because I feel like mental illness is a prevalent disease that many people do not understand and I was hoping I could help with social awareness. I was so psyched for their cause I offered a year of my time, but they just didn’t know what to do with me. Thought their cause is good, at the time that I talked with them they seemed to still figure out how to operate, so I stepped away.
I would love to hear where you readers affiliate your volunteer time and why. I am looking for something that I love as much as platelet donation. Some form of service that is really needed and appreciated.
The biggest downside to climbing is finding climbing partners. My phone is chalk full of people I can call, but I would absolutely love to find one solid partner who is excited to get out on a regular basis. Yet there are so many variables when finding a solid partner, which include finding someone who is:
psyched on the same type of climbs I am pysched on, which this year is 5.12 sport climbs.
willing to also hang the draws. It is easy to find a catch, but harder to find someone willing to try and lead. I don’t mind leading, but I also get scared and have mental blocks, so it is nice if my partner and I can swap leads when necessary.
knows the art of the dynamic belay. I am usually lighter than my climbing partners and do not want to end up with another busted ankle.
has a similar schedule to mine. This is real tricky in Utah as many of my friends can get out earlier than 5pm.
who is jazzed to go out with me, so the calling isn’t one sided. This is one of the trickiest variables. I feel like I am always doing the planning and it would be nice to find someone where the excitement to get call me was equal.
and it would be nice to find someone who could plan prior to the morning of the climb. I have noticed that this one might be real tricky to find.
The ideal situation would be to find someone who every week wanted to get out on a certain day to work 5.12’s. The problem is, if this person is found, it is real easy to date the person (if male) and then inevitable things end and though friends, there really isn’t the interest in climbing together regularly. Or if female, as soon as they find a guy they would rather climb with their boyfriend. I understand both these traps and realize it is just part of the variables in finding a partner.
Regardless, if you are reading this and looking for a 5.12 sport climbing partner please contact me. I would be jazzed to meet you and get out on a regular basis. Hell, I will even bring beer and try to be cheery every time we hang out. =)
Ms. Pear (who will from here on out be referenced as the Route Slayer) and I have been wanting to hop on Castleton since last year. We had tried to run it this past November, but due to inclement weather were turned away, cragging for the day instead. So when the weather was looking nice and sunny this past weekend we decided to cruise down with our friends, Triznut and Frenchie, for a desert weekend and a break from “real life”.
On Saturday we spent the day cragging at the Ice Cream Parlor, each of us climbing a handful of pitches and I even taking a couple of the trad leads. Let me note, that I am NOT a trad climber by any means but am trying to develop a “trad lead head”. Learning to love this type of climbing is definitely a work in progress for me.
Triznut leading a very fun 5.8 finger crack.
Frenchie cleaning another excellent line after leading it.
That night we camped at the Castleton camping area. The Route Slayer and I were so exhausted we skipped our planned dinner and quickly toasted quesadillas. I gobbled mine down and was the first to bed around 10pm, instantly falling asleep.
My tent with a sun-lit Castleton in the background.
The next morn we spent an hour preparing our trad rack and cleaning up camp, then set off on the trail up to Castleton. I quickly realized that my lack of cardio for the last year due to the ankle injury and my climbing partner’s intense cardio workouts due to her scheduled Boston marathon run created a huge discrepancy in our hiking times. =) Thankfully she was the fastest of all four of us so I didn’t feel like a complete slacker.
The Frenchman hiking up to Castleton. Frenchie and Triznut ran the Kori-angles line, meeting the Route Slayer and I at the top to join ropes for the rappels.
The Route Slayer and I did the North Chimney line of Castleton, a four pitch 5.8 line. The blue line on this picture shows the approximate route (with the dotted line showing that we were actually on the backside or I guess really the middle of the tower). Beta for the route can be found here on MountainProject. There is an offwidth section on pitch 2 that requires a 4 to 4.5 camalot. Yet if new to offwidth, the Route Slayer actually suggest a 5 camalot.
I was real psyched on climbing Castleton, but I think I must have forgotten many aspects of tower climbing since I have only done one other tower to date. I somehow forgot that I am NOT a desert trad climber, I don’t particularly like exposure and I can often become a little queasy with great heights. None of these characteristics, especially combined, are useful on Castleton. =)
Me. Real jazzed. Well.. until I started to climb.
The Route Slayer pulling the boulder move at the bottom of the first pitch.
Me and the Route Slayer at the top of the first pitch. The Route Slayer had taken the first, and hardest, lead and had done a phenomenal job. I struggled mentally, even on top rope. The first pitch seemed pretty “in my face” with the exposure feeling more extreme than what I had expected from pitch 1. I was smiley in this picture, but deep down I wondered if I was going to hit the summit.
Me finishing up the second pitch. The Route Slayer took this picture as she vowed NEVER to climb an offwidth again. =)
The Route Slayer and I had decided in the morn that she would take the first two leads, the hardest of the four, and I would take the last two. I wasn’t quite sure on the hike up if I could actually take the last two leads as I seriously am not a trad climber. Yet, I thought I would see how the climb was feeling. By the top of the second pitch it was real obvious that me taking the last two leads was not going to happen. I continued to mentally struggle to feel even somewhat comfortable on these routes. The Route Slayer gladly stepped up (thank you again) and led the last two pitches easily.
The top of the 3rd pitch was a fantastic corridor, comfortable for sitting and enjoying the sun.
Me finishing up the 4th pitch, which was by far the most enjoyable pitch as it contained face holds and allowed the use of the trusty heel hook.
The Route Slayer and I hit the summit early afternoon, meeting Triznut and Frenchie who had beaten us by about half an hour. The summit views were spectacular and I felt honored to add my name into the summit diary, even with my entry stating that I was scared and hit the summit only due to luckily having the best climbing partner ever. =)
The view from the summit.
The Frenchman, Triznut, the Route Slayer and I.
Triznut escaping the wind in the hangout area.
Getting ready for the first rappel.
A picture looking down on the first rap. I usually don’t like rappeling as it is the most common way climbers get hurt. This rap seemed especially intense due to the exposure, sheer wall and wind. This was the first time that I truly thought I might throw up upon looking over the edge. Why again do I climb for a hobby?
Soon enough we were all back on level ground.
Overall, climbing Castleton was a good experience. There were some downsides, for instance me almost crying twice and seriously thinking I might throw up. Ha ha…! I don’t know why this climb was so incredibly emotional for me. I hoped it was an off day or because I hadn’t been on a rope for awhile. Regardless, I did get to hang out in the sun with my friends and see some beautiful views of Moab. But mostly, I learned that deep down I am truly just a sport climber. I like the movement of sport routes, the face holds and the length of the climb. And you know what? That is ok. The more I climb, the more I learn that all my partners and I all have different fortes. Tower leads should be left up to Frenchie, Triznut and the Route Slayer. Please only send fixed gear leads my way. =)
My friend, the Greyhghost, gave me the heads up about a phenomenal recycling service in Utah. The company, Stone Castle, is in the computer and electronics recycling business specifically but recycles everything imaginable from monitors and hard drives to batteries, electronics, glass, plastics, microwaves, DVDs, cell phones etc. The company services Weber, Davis and Utah counties through a handful of location drops, but addresseses Salt Lake County with a pickup service. They pickup and recycle everything for free except monitors and tvs which cost a mere $5 fee.
To schedule a pickup appointment, call 801-731-9444 and tell them where you will leave the items. Fantastic!
I recently had the chance to fly out to New York for the weekend. It was my first time to go to New York in the spring and it was substantially more enjoyable than my dead of winter and middle of summer trips. In fact, I actually loved New York and for the first time in my life thought I might enjoy living there.
I crashed up in Brooklyn at my friend Josh’s house. It was extremely kind of him to offer up his place, which was perfectly located for easy access into the city. This picture was taken when we were enjoying an excellent brunch at Miriams.
My Seattle-based friend Warren suggested I catch up with his friend and avid NYC tour guide, JP. JP was seriously hilarious and gladly showed me around the most interesting sites of Union Square: the man selling the carrot slicer, the sock shop with a very diverse sock offering, the gym where JP enjoyed running on the sidewalk racing the folks on the treadmills, a comfortable couch outside of a furniture shop, but mostly the fantastic Japanese restaurant with a cotton candy machine. Good times!
I was able to meet up with my good friend Robb for drinks at Floyds, catching up on life while watching endless games of Bacci ball. He then joined me on Saturday for my walk across the Brooklyn bridge and strolling through Soho.
The busy, busy street in Soho.
After meeting up with my business friend Sam, I caught up with Justin for a quick drink
Later on Saturday night I hung out with a bunch of friends from SXSW including Alex and his wife, Orian, Charlie and his girl Meredith, and a couple of Charlie’s other friends I didn’t get the time to really get to know. A handful of us then headed to Yuri’s for a party, but I am not used to the late night lifestyle of New York and so didn’t stay very long. The next day I gathered all my stuff together and flew home in the early afternoon.
Shaft and I cruised up to Solitude in celebration of St. Patty’s for half a day of skiing. The snow conditions were pretty good (meaning a little fresh powder only in the trees), but it was just nice to escape the city for a bit and take a break from the stresses of life.
No matter the ski day, the picture always looks the same. =)
We randomly stopped at a little lodge on the hill and to our surprise a porcupine was waddling around in search of food. I have never seen a porcupine in the wild, let alone at the resort.
