The CragBaby

My first climbing partner was my neighbor, Kathryn, who I reference on this blog as The Route Slayer. We somehow did not know each other, though neighbors, until a mutual friend of mine saw me on the street and made mention of a fellow climber living two houses down from me. Me (being the social gal I am) instantly walked to the house and introduced myself. We made plans to go out climbing, but ended up completely epic’ing on our first day on the rock. I thought for sure this girl would never call me back, as she was much more experienced than my newbie self, but amazingly she did … and we have been climbing partners ever since.

Kathryn completely impresses me by her climbing abilities, peak ascents, marathon times and her continued friendship. Once again she hit a new goal by finishing her first Ironman this past August. Her goal was to finish under 14 hours; a goal she crushed when she came in at 12 hours and 30m (note the clock in the pic is delayed due to the first wave of athletes). She ended up placing 10th overall and 1st in her age group.

Congrats my friend! I look forward to the feats you accomplish next year!!!

I have been on vacation for six weeks, or perhaps I should say pseudo vacation considering I do work 2 days per week. To be honest, working my job AROUND my climbing schedule is quite heavenly. =)

For the past six weeks I decided to stay in Utah, mostly in SLC, as there were still routes and crags I wanted to explore, I had a wide network of climbing partners, but mostly because I don’t know where my next job will take me.

Yet by the time Sept 1 rolled around, I started to question my Utah decision, fretting that I should have used this time to go somewhere far away. However, if the goals of this pseudo vacation are relaxation, having fun and climbing, perhaps I should stop worrying about my decision as these past weeks allowed me to do the following:

I climbed in the local canyons of Big Cottonwood, Little Cottonwood, American Fork and Ferguson. (Pictured is me at a dawn bouldering session with Severhead, Jun and Trent.)

I made a couple weekend trips to Maple Canyon.  (Pictured is a SLC climber getting ready to attempt Ammo Dump.)

I visited Wild Iris, this being only my second trip. (Pictured is a SLC climber.)

I bouldered some excellent problems in Joes and Triassic. (Pictured is Shaft.)

I was able to climb 31 out of 46 days. (Pictured is me on a very cool, thin problem, with the classic sandy top-out in Triassic.)

I enjoyed the sunrise in Little Cottonwood. (On this day I was climbing Pentapitch with new friend, Tyler.)

I sent another 12a route and my first v7. Yippee!! (Me looking super serious at Joes Valley.)

I spent my birthday weekend with my great friend, while we both completed our birthday challenges. (Pictured are Shaft and I after completion of his 41 boulder problem birthday challenge.)

I checked out the Outdoor Recreation Show and watched the Mammut Bouldering competition.  Fun, fun, fun!

I enjoyed many great nights out on the town. (Pictured are Shaft and I at Brian and Elise’s wedding.  Whew… I was in dire need of a haircut!)

I partied it up at my old house where I watched Shaft get his a$$ kicked by the JamesMonster in guitar hero.

And I saw The Route Slayer extremely happy after climbing. (Check out the pink car in the background!) =)

Yep, I need to stop fretting.  These past six weeks have been great!

Lately I have been thinking a lot about travel (considering it is my current full time focus).  It is extremely helpful to receive beta from fellow travelers or locals prior to a trip.  In hopes of returning the beta karma, I thought I would start posting up trip beta from places I have visited or lived.

Since my most recent big trip was to Squamish, I will start there.

Guidebooks

• Three guides are currently available for the Squamish area, all with their own distinct purposes.  If looking to do a mix of classic routes (sport and trad) plus wanting integrate some bouldering, definitely get the Squamish Select by Marc Bourdon.  If wanting to stay right in Squamish itself and climb mostly around The Chief, buy The Climber’s Guide to Squamish by Kevin McClane.  If strictly bouldering, buy Squamish Bouldering by Marc Bourdon and Scott Tasaka.  I happened to have both The Squamish Select and The Climber’s Guide to Squamish.  Shaft and I were doing a mix of climbs, and though it was helpful to have both, I really only needed the Squamish Select for the routes we wanted to do and the length of our stay (2 weeks).  Yet, I must mention that  The Climber’s Guide to Squamish included a great history of the area and the Chief.

Camping

• Chief Campground – most popular campground for climbers.  Cost is $10 a site for drive in sites, which can be shared with up to 4 people, and I believe free for the walk-in sites. It is good to note that the campground gate is shut from 11pm to 7am.  Also, it was really helpful to have a tarp and some cord to shelter items from the rain.
• The Sound – there is free camping if you want to camp out of bounds.  However, run-ins with giant sea creatures can become a reality.
  

Food / Drink

• Howe Sound Brew Pub – great food, especially pizza.  They have great daily specials that the server never seems to mention, so remember to ask.
• Mountain Burger House – great hamburgers, great price.
• Eagle’s Nest – this restaurant is a little out of the way, but is a great place for a nicer dinner if getting tired of bar food or camp pasta.
• Sunflower Bakery – the usual bakery. Nice change from the usual oatmeal for breakfast.
• Alcoholic Beverages – Note that it is VERY expensive to buy alcoholic beverages, especially beer, in Squamish.  Customs allows one case of beer and 1500ml of wine to cross the border.  It is very wise to bring this in with you.

Personal Hygiene

• Showers – The Recreation Centre is the best place for showers.  Cheap, fairly clean, plus includes a hot tub, pool and steam room if wanted.
• Laundromat – The laundromat is a little tricky to find as it is nestled in a shopping center.

Other

• Gasoline – Fuel is also very pricey in Canada, so once again fill up prior to crossing the border.
• Internet – The adventure center offers free wifi if you have a laptop.  If not, there is an Internet Cafe on the main street.
• Currency – We had zero problems with currency and/or the dollar being accepted.  However, few places take the American Express card.
• Theft – Theft was surprisingly a problem in Squamish, even at the Howe Sound.  When climbing at the Smoke Bluffs, park a little south at the Adventure Center rather than the designated parking spot as your vehicle will be safer.

If you readers have any beta of your own, please feel free to comment.

I have been on “vacation” since August 1st.  I thought I would have tons of free time and would blog regularly.  Yet these high hopes have not come to fruitition as I instead have jammed my free time with climbing,  hanging out with friends and just having a great time. I will stop being so lazy now and attempt to resume my usual blogging schedule while enjoying the upcoming months of freedom.  Look for new posts soon…. =)