The CragBaby

Adrian on ‘Dirty Martini’.

Usually guidebooks include a list of area classic, which was the case in the Hueco Tanks guide; however, sometimes my favorites vary from those of the author.  For instance, many of the classics in the Hueco guidebook were high balls, which I don’t really enjoy (in fact usually skipped).  So I have started to compile some of my favorite lines in each area I visit, with the following being my Hueco list.

V0

• Small Potatoes area includes a whole handful of fabulous v0 – v2 climbs. (Small Potatoes, North Mountain)

V1

• Orifice Affair – (Lunch Rock area, North Mountain) 

V2

• Name? – (Small Potatoes, North Mountain) There is a prow climb in the small potatos area.  I can’t remember the name now (and I am sans guidebook as I am sitting in France) but remember this line being real fun.

V3

• La Delicate – (New Meadow, North Mountain) Technical slab climb.
• Ostersizer – (Backountry) This fun line is located in the backcountry next to Hobbit in a Blender.  However, I learned after I left that a huge chunk of it came off during the Rock Rodeo, splicing a brand new pad in half.
• Sign of the Cross – (Sign of the Cross, North Mountain) Tricky!  If you can’t reach the starting holds, get a boost.  Do-able, just takes a little time to figure out (at least for me).

V4

• Girls of Juarez – (Upper Lost Boulder, North Mountain)
• Moonshine Roof – (Backcountry) This roof includes a big first move that traverses into an intriguing surfboard feature, with a consistent finish.
• Warmup Roof – (Backcountry)
• T-Bone Shuffle – (North Mountain)

 V5

• Lobster Claw – (New Meadow, North Mountain) Fabulous line with many beta variations.
• Jigsaw Puzzle – (Backcountry)
• DragonFly – (Backcountry)

V6

• King Cobra – (New Meadow, North Mountain) Powerful! The finish looks so straightforward, but watch out as that heel hook likes to spit that heel right out.
• See Spot – (Big Time Boulder, North Moutain) Quite a tall problem that I did not send and probably never will. =)
• Baby Martini – (Martini Cave, North Mountain)

V7

• Big Iron on His Hip – (Martini Cave, North Mountain) This might have been my all time favorite climb at Hueco.  The sit start is popular line Dirty Martini, but if you are like me and can’t climb v9 right now this is a perfect alternative that includes all the enjoyable moves. =)  In order to send I had to use a bicycle, heel-toe cam and this great campus cross move.  SO FUN!
• Roughage – (Lunch Rocks, North Mountain)
• Speedbump – (New Meadow, North Mountain) This is a great line because it is so easy with the right beta and so hard otherwise.  The key move is a weird heel hook that seems impossible, but completely unocks the problem.
• Guns of Navarone – (North Moutain) A new line not in the book, located near Baby Face and Daily Dick Dose.  I actually never got the chance to try it, but it looks superb. Real long and crimpy, with the crimps supposedly becoming more positive the further you climb.

 V8

• Chris’s Arete – (North Mountain) The climb is said to be soft for the grade, and to be honest I agree with that assessment.  Regardless if it is a v7 or v8, try it… it is fun!
• Something Different –  (Backcountry) Only worked on this climb one day, but the moves (especially the beginning moves if you are shorter like myself) were intriguing.
• Sex after Death – (Backcountry) Hello crimps!

V9

• Dirty Martini – (Martini Cave, North Mountain) This is the only v9 that I hopped on.  The climb felt ok except for the shut down first move.  If you can pull this incredibly hard first move, the rest will be a cake walk.        

Tags: climbing, hueco tanks, rock climbing, texas

This entry was posted on Saturday, April 18th, 2009 at 3:58 pm and is filed under Destination: Hueco Tanks, TX, RoadTrip2008, climbing, travel. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.