Bishop: Classic Problems
I currently have two friends (Ben Grubb and Ben Sales) on a road trip in the U.S. with their current destination being Bishop, CA. I thought I would keep up my recent tradition (started with the Hueco list) of listing my favorite problems per area as sometimes my favorites vary from the listed area classics. (Listed problems that are crossed out mean it is an area classic according to the guidebook, but I think it is one to definitely skip.)
A climber on Pope’s Prow. Photo by Frank Wu.
v0
- Unnamed on the Sunshine Boulder – (Buttermilks) This climb actually gets a v0- rating, but it is pretty scary because of the height. It is a great warmup for the Buttermilks as it gets the head thinking for the day.
- Hero’s Roof – (Buttermilks) Enjoyable.
- China Doll – (Sads) Highball that looks like a spine.
- Unnamed on the Small Boulder next to Leary / Bard Boulder – (Buttermilks) It is actually a v0-, but it still managed to toss me off 4 times… making me love the problem even more. =)
v1
- A Birthing Experience – (Buttermilks) The hardest v1 you will ever try because it doesn’t take “usual” climbing techniques. Instead you will have to start perfectly laying down and implement elbow scums. So fun… I tried and DID NOT send. Ha ha! Perfect climb when you need to take a break and have some good laughs.
- Buttermilk Stem – (Buttermilk) A hard v1 but another good intro to the Buttermilks.
- One Pull – (Happies) Actually has a bit of a committing move.
- Immigration in The Media – (Happies)
- The Great Dominions – (Sads)
- The Black Stuff – (Sads) Awesome! Bring pads.
v2
- 60 foot Woman Traverse – (Happies) Surprisingly hard because it is so long.
- InterSactum – (Bishop) A little tricky. It unfortunately doesn’t top out, but good.
- Still Life – (Sads)
Doug doing a high step on Birthday Direct. Photo by Frank Wu.
v3
- Birthday Direct – (Buttermilks) Perhaps the hardest v3 I have ever seen. I attempted it 10 times and did not send (no matter what Steve H. claims. Thanks for your optimism, Steve.) =)
- Slap Happy – (Happies) Reachy, but good.
- Solarium – (Happies) This is one HARD v3. Wouldn’t call it a classic per se. Don’t feel badly skipping it.
v4
- Ironman Traverse - (Buttermilks) This is the problem you often see photographed from Bishop. Great line.
- Sucker Punch – (Happies) One move wonder, yet still quite fun.
Me on Serengetti, being spotted by Pang. Photo by Frank Wu.
v5
- Strength in Numbers – (Sads) Tall problem, but the holds are surprisingly good.
- Go Granny Go – (Buttermilks)
- Go Granny Go Variation – (Buttermilks) The direct version of this problem probably has a harder move in it, but I liked the flow of the variation better.
- Serengetti – (Happies)
- Pain Grain – (Buttermilks) Hurts and quite scary, but you feel like a rockstar when you send. =) There is a v7 sit as well.
- Mr. Happy – (Happies) Sharp, but a good example of Bishop pocketed line.
- Son of Claudius Rufus – (Happies) Fun traverse. Perfect problem if nursing a sprained ankle because it is close to the ground.
- Molly – This is listed as a classic. I hate it. Skip this problem!
v6
- Rio’s Crack – (Sads) This was an excellent climb. Definitely in my top 3 of favorite Bishop climbs.
- Pope’s Prow – (Buttermilks) Technical line. Make sure to pad up the bottom, even though it isn’t “too” high. I did see someone rip off and really mess up their ankles while trying to do the last mantel.
- Unnamed on the Leary / Bard Boulder – (Buttermilks) Not sure why this problem doesn’t get a name because it is great. The last move of going to the patina flake is reachy for the short person, which feels quite scary.
- Milk the Milks – (Buttermilks) This line has a biggish throw, crimp traverse and then finishes up on slab. Perfect!
- Atari – (Happies) I did not get to climb this problem due to the sprained ankle. But it looks so stunningly beautiful sitting up on the hillside. Someone please go send this one for me. =)
- Strength in Numbers Variation – (Sads)
- Every Color You Are - (Happies) Fun!
- Fly Boy Stand – (Buttermilks) Core intensive! Yes, you start at the big jug… and yes, it is still hard.
- Green Wall Center- (Buttermilks) The moves were just ok, but the face of the climb is gorgeous.
v7
- High Plains Drifter – (Buttermilks) This problem really does not need any description. Just do it! Or, in my case, attempt to send it… but hopefully it doesn’t also give you fellow readers a sprained ankle. =) The line is so great, that it was worth the sprained ankle.
- Morning Dove White – (Happies) I loved this line because it was beautiful. Unfortunately I was sick the day I stopped by and then I sprained my ankle. I must admit that I was incredibly sad that I never got to properly work this line. =(
- Junior’s Achievement – (Buttermilks) Extremely sharp, but I still liked it.
Travis on Checkerboard.
v8
- Fly Boy Sit – (Buttermilks) This was my all time favorite climb in Bishop! Great line that flows nicely and still has a heart flutter finish. Definitely try, but make sure to have a lot of pads. It isn’t called Fly Boy without reason.
- PowPow – (Sads) – simply excellent!
- Checkerboard – (Buttermilks) Very aesthetic line, though quite difficult for the short person. I was struggling to get through the middle section and the real reachy area is near the end.
v9
- Moon Raker – (Buttermilks) I loved this line because it includes movement that just seems improbable to find on a route. Technique needed includes heel hooks, heel-toe cam and the ability to stop the massive swing.
- Soul Slinger – (Buttermilks) This seems to be a favorite of most people. You shouldn’t have too hard of a time finding a sea of pads underneath it.
- Toxic Avenger – (Happies) Hard, yet possibly do-able. Try it!
Remember that you are in Bishop, land of the high-ball problems. Take lots of pads!
Once again, I didn’t hop on anything harder than v9 meaning my list caps out at this level. Do you readers have any suggestions? Please list up any problems you suggest in the comments. =)
Tags: Bishop, California, climbing