Roadtrip Weeks 36 – 39: Fontainebleau, France
After my week in Lyon I picked up my rental car and made the four hour drive to Fontainebleau, France. David had introduced me to fellow climber Guillaume who graciously offered me the spare room in his La Vaudoue home and became a dear friend.
Fontainebleau (or simply Bleau) was by far my favorite destination on this trip (expect to see a couple posts about this destination). I didn’t send any new projects, but I loved this area because…
- Climbing was a family event. It was very common to see entire families out picnicking while the climber in the family would do a circuit.
- Climbers were of all ages. Everyone from little kids to 60-year-old+ crushers could be seen on the rock. One day I saw an older lady, I would guess late 50′s to 60′s, by herself and carrying a pad out of the forest. It made me smile and I went out of my way to say “Bonjour”.
- Everyday I met someone from a different country and culture. Over my time in Bleau I climbed with the French, Germans, Dutch, Belgiums, Finnish, British and two Americans.
- The sloping rock sandstone was unique. Sure HorsePens40 looks similar, but HP40 doesn’t even come close to comparing to the quantity in Bleau.
- The quantity of boulders is mind boggling.
- The scene was perfect, with people simply enjoying the sun and having a good time. I only saw one person, a girl, get upset and throw a wobbler. It was as if people remembered that climbing is a hobby.
- Paris was only an hour away!
Me using toe hook beta to top out a traverse problem at Le Diplodocus.
Jussi topping out ‘L’auriculaire – Toit aux frelons’ at La Roche aux Sabots. Every problem on this boulder was excellent and tricky.
Me working into the crux of ‘Le Tiroir’ at La Roche aux Sabots.
Guillaume on an excellent traverse (Rouge 13) at Canche Aux Mercier. The red circuit at this crag was fabulous.
Tuomo on a three star traverse (Rouge 22) at Franchard Isatis.
Juho trying to grab the crux hold on ‘Surplomb de la Coquille’. The move looks so easy, but is amazingly tricky as it is necessary to make the move dynamically yet is hard to hold if going dynamically.
Me on classic line ‘La Marie Rose’. The climb was so enjoyable, whereas the down climb was sheer agony.
Me on the start moves of ‘Druxmanie’ at Bas Cuvier.
One of my British friends on the ‘Cul de Chien Roof’. This line was extremely excellent including a mono pocket and an extremely high, committing heel hook followed by an extremely long reach.
Emiel trying to catch the crux hold on ‘Jet Set’ at Roche aux Sabots.
Svilen on ‘L’helicoptre’. I really loved this problem, but the dynamic move, which Svilen is getting ready to do, is high up and often results on the climber flying off spinning. We padded the landing with 10+ pads in all directions because every climber would fall in a different location.
Me working into the dual underclings on another great sloper problem at Franchard Isatis.
Jussi so incredibly close to sticking Vin Rouge, a 7a dyno.
Guillaume at 91.1. I was so exhausted by this day, as this was our sixth consecutive day of climbing and my bicep was throbbing, that I just took pictures of Guillaume all day long. =)
Svilen on ‘Holey Moley’ at Bas Cuvier. This was on the Bicep Mou boulder and housed at least 5 good lines. ‘Holey Moley’ included a long reach, double toe jams (like Svilen is doing), a swing and a heel hook.
Me on ‘Graviton’ at Roche aux Sabot. Another fabulous line with yet another fabulously hard sloping top-out.
Tags: Fontainebleau, France, rock climbing