The CragBaby

I received one of the kindest emails a couple months ago from a fellow local climber who had read on my blog that I was interested in hopping on some 5.12s. He had already cruised through the majority of local 12s and so sent me a list of his personal favorites. It was such an incredibly nice gesture and an email I have often referenced.

Rainbow seen on the walk down from the Millstone.

I thought that a similar listing of my favorite Wasatch routes by grade (updating this post as I continue to climb) might be of use to readers. The following routes are listed as name, grade (broken down by letter grade for 5.10 and above), location and my comments.

Shaft on Wrecking Ball (5.10 - 11) with SP on Hollow Man (5.9).

5.7 Routes

• Maudlin – Salt Lake Slips, Big Cottonwood – This is a new route to the left of Italian Arete. It is long, requiring a 70mm rope and 12 quickdraws. Great for beginners.

5.8 Routes

• Geronimo – S-Curves Upper Wall, Big Cottonwood – Fun!

5.9 Routes

• Hollow Man – Challenge Buttress West Face, Big Cottonwood - Great warmup with fun “Big Cottonwood” moves.
• Ionic Binding (9+) – S-Curves Lower Wall, Big Cottonwood – I have learned to really enjoy this climb, even though it gives me flash pump ever time I run it. I swear 9+ is one of the hardest grades. =)
• There are two fun 5.9’s at Storm Mountain. The wall is newer and not in the guide book. I will update when I figure out the names and area. They are in essence right across from the small reservoir.

Goreham leading Litmus Test (5.11c).

5.10 Routes

• Caress of Steel (5.10a) – The Membrane, American Fork - The foot holds are a little polished, but it is definitely still worth one’s time. An AF Classic.
• Twist And Shout (5.10a) – The Escape Buttress, American Fork – This climb has a warm spot in my heart because it was my first 5.10 lead / redpoint.
• Total X (5.10a/b) – The Watch Tower, Ferguson – This is a mixed route with the bottom being a 5.8 gear line with the top bolted section being a 5.10 pump-fest. Fun!
• Uncensored Society (5.10b) - The Watch Tower, Ferguson - One of Ferguson’s best.
• Hidden Agenda (5.10b) - Industrial Wall, Little Cottonwood - Great slab route, which means I did not lead it nor ever will. =) However, if you love slab or are top roping, definitely do this route.
• Union Dues (5.10b) - Industrial Wall, Little Cottonwood - Another great slab route, which means I top-roped. If you love slab or on a top rope, this one is splendid. =)
• Salem’s Lot (5.10c) – Salt Lake Slips, Big Cottonwood – Cragbaby readers might disagree on this route, but for some reason I love this line. The book doesn’t give it many stars, but I think I like it because it was one of the first 10’s I ever worked on. I remember top-roping it on numerous occasions and being scared of falling into the huge pine tree when starting to lead.
• Wrecking Ball (5.10 - 5.11′ish) – Challenge Buttress West Face, Big Cottonwood – This climb is to the left of Hollow Man and pulls a roof with a couple tricky moves. Some call it a 11b, some say it is easier.
• Winky and Waxman Go Bolting Extension – (5.10 – 11’ish) – Challenge Buttress West Face, Big Cottonwood – Link the Winky and Waxman line (the book says 11b, but I think it is more like a 10) with the long 5.10 line that finishes at the top of the crag. Fun and pumpy!
• Cecret Lake Wall, Albion Basin, Little Cottonwood - the whole wall is a row of 5.10s, with each climb better than the next.  The surrounding is a beautiful meadow with a stream by the crag.

The Route Slayer on Right Pile (5.11d).

5.11 Routes

• Black Monday (5.11a) – Lower S Curves, Big Cottonwood – Uber classic! I have yet to meet a person who does NOT like this climb.
• Stone Ground (11b) - Millstone, Big Cottonwood – Due to the bolting, I think this route seems hard for the grade. The moves are fantastic, but it is quite a bit heady.
• Misery (5.11b) – Broad’s Fork, Big Cottonwood – The book only gives this route one star, but I think it is a fun line that includes lots of stemming. Plus it is surrounded by other great climbs.
• Firewoman (5.11b) – The Watchtower, American Fork – Crimpy and fun! Seemed hard for the grade.
• Primal Magic (5.11b) – The Hard Rock, American Fork – The AF guide doesn’t give this route any stars, but I really like it.
• High Dive (5.11b/c) – S-Curve Upper Wall, Big Cottonwood – This is the second pitch above Geronimo. Short, sweet, and very similar to Black Monday.
• Eight to Eleven (5.11b/c) – The Hard Rock South Face, American Fork – A two pitch, very enjoyable route!
• License to Thrill (5.11c) – The Membrane, American Fork - Just go do it! One of the classics!
• Litmus Test (5.11c) - Division Wall, American Fork – Easier climb with one tricky move over the roof. A good first 11c.
• Right Pile (5.11d) – The Pile, Big Cottonwood - I absolutely love this climb as it was my nemesis for almost a year. Very hard, pumpy 11d that I finally sent with the use of two heel-toe cams and numerous attempts. A must do!
• Reaching for Razors (5.11d) - Hell, American Fork - Some people mention that this climb is polished (as it is one of the very few warmups in Hell), but I found it to be superb.
• Mach (5.11d) – The Speed Trap, Big Cottonwood – The book gives it only one star, but I really like this climb. Note that between the 4th and 5th bolt it is quite heady as it seems a bit run-out, though the holds are all there.
• Dumb Broads (5.11d) – Broad’s Fork, Big Cottonwood – Pumpy little thing!

Brian on Gordon’s Link-up (5.12a).

5.12 Routes

• Liquid Oxygen (5.12a) - Division Wall, American Fork - Uber classic!
• Naked Nebula (5.12a) – White Wave Wall, American Fork - I hate the slab portion of the climb, but the actual 12a climbing is a beautiful jug / heel hook haul.
• All Chalk and No Action (5.12a) - Perhaps Area, Little Cottonwood - Beautiful!
• Gordon’s Linkup (5.12a) - Dingo Boy Wall, Upper Membrane - Boulderey start with pockets the rest of the way.
• Big in Japan (5.12b) - Storm Mountain, Big Cottonwood – Interesting, but scary.
• Isotoner Moaner (5.12a/b) – Division Wall West Face, American Fork - Thin with a couple distinct cruxes (at least for me).
• Left Pile (5.12b) - The Pile, Big Cottonwood – This might be one of my favorite routes. Great movement, with a safe fall.
• Beeline (5.12b) – The Billboard , American Fork – Long with two cruxes, but real fun.

Triznut leading Big in Japan (5.12b).

Other Wasatch routes that I hear are classic, but I have yet to try include the following. If interested in getting on these lines, drop me a line.

• Concrete Jungle (5.11c) – Tower of Babel, Ferguson
• Step Right Up (5.12a) - The Watchtower, American Fork
• Mission Control (5.12a) - Cannabis Wall, American Fork
• Teeanova (5.11d / 12a) - The Hard Rock, American Fork
• Fuego (5.12a) – Tower of Babel, Ferguson

Sorry, but my list caps out at 12b as that is the hardest grade I have actively worked, merely toproping a couple 12cs. I will keep the list updated and would welcome any route suggestions from you readers.

A couple weeks ago I redpointed my hardest climb to date, Left Pile. I was so ecstatic, even doing jumping jacks after the send, with an overflow of excitement that did not dissipate until approximately noon the next day.

Me drinking the celebratory Pabst that Shaft secretly brought to the crag.

Yet, the taste of victory lingers only until the next time on the rock. Left Pile was a climb of my preferred style: steep, big jugs that turned to crimps and then a fun dynamic throw to a huge sinker. But this year I am trying to expand my climbing abilities to include areas where I am not so comfortable, especially trad climbing and slab faces…. and it is SCARY!

Triznut on Stone Ground at The Millstone.

Within days of sending Left Pile, I headed up to the Millstone to be completely scared on Cat Juggling (5.10c) due to a single slab move. I finally finished the lead, but only after whining and moaning for a good 20 minutes (or more!). Soon after I went to Industrial Wall to come down early from Assembly Line, a mere 5.7 slab lead, completely scared of the possible fall. And then the next day I shakily lead a beautiful 5.8 trad line on Stiffler’s Mom, almost hyperventilating in the process. Damn… sometimes I suck at climbing! =)

Slab Master Shaft uncoiling our rope at the Industrial Wall.

But, perhaps climbing is fun due to these reasons… the extensive variety of climbs available, the continual intense mental game, the awe of watching friends crush routes that scare me .. and just the continual reminder that once I think I am getting stronger, I am quickly dished out a spoonful of humility. =)

Prior to traveling through Ireland in 2006 I posted up on the Irish climbing forums in search of climbing partners, hoping to hit up a couple of the crags on my visit. Dave (who I reference as H.I.P. #2) was living in Wales but had seen the post and inquired why none of his friends had yet to respond. A couple of them then reached out to me and we arranged a way to meet up and climb in the Burren over one weekend, that just happened to be a weekend when Dave was visiting from Wales.

The H.I.P. nickname came about because as we were climbing in the Burren the weather included the usual drizzle and cloudy skies. The rain would have definitely stopped me from climbing back home in Utah, but the whole Irish crew was somehow super psyched on the wet holds. That evening the rain and wind really picked up and I quickly hopped into my down sleeping bag as the Irish team happily sipped tea in the torrential weather.  Whew… so much more hardcore than I. So from there on out I started to call them the Hardcore Irish People (or H.I.P.’s for short).

My friends Neal (H.I.P. #1… the number difference being solely because I am able to chat with Neal more regularly) and Dave (H.I.P. #2) continue to impress me. I joined H.I.P. #1 in Thailand where he just kept on sending project after project, redpointing his first 8a and continuing to be super psyched the whole time. Then this week on H.I.P. #2’s blog he posts up this entry on his first E7 (8a) . What the hell is he even holding onto on this climb?! And how in the hell is he placing gear?! You really must check out the whole post .

I seriously have no idea how he is staying on the wall with that foot and hand hold.  And I love this line, "Ignore the crap ropework… was more concerned with staying on!"

The first mono in a sequence of mono pockets. Whew… hardcore Irish people! If I read his post correctly, I believe he hit the redpoint on this climb. Congrats, my friend!

This past week I gave my 2 weeks notice to my employing firm. I have been extremely fortunate to work for my employer and will actually continue to work with them for the next couple months, but on a part time rather than full time basis. Why? Because as of August 1st my main focus will be on climbing and traveling for the next 4 -5 months. And yes, I am super psyched. =)

The game plan (which is completely open to changing) is to stay in Utah for the month of August to hopefully work through many of the details of these books.

In September, I am thinking about heading to Kentucky to work on this book.

Then in October and November these books.

And then, depending on how I feel, in December to work on this book.

Yep. I am pretty psyched. =) If any of you readers are also going to be on the road or just want to meet up, let me know.

Shaft, SP, Murphy, the CragBaby and I headed up to the Uintas to meet up with a crew of our friends (Severhead’s rowdy bunch and HappyD’s crew) in celebration of Independence Day and Severhead’s birthday. It was yet another perfect Utah weekend of sunshine and climbing.

We spent the first day climbing at Stone Garden and the second day at Notch Lake. Here is the CragBaby relaxing from the 2 - 3 mile hike into Notch Lake. Shaft and I later decided that CB is surprisingly the ideal crag dog. She absolutely loves to hike, can easily squeeze her way under logs, quickly scrambles up boulders, never gets too warm, dares to fight off creatures of all sizes, seems to have no fear of heights and, when necessary. can easily fit into one’s jacket.

This was our first time to the Getaway Wall at Notch Lake and it is my new favorite Uinta crag. The scenery was beautiful and the crag offered classic lines ranging from a 5.6 to a couple 5.11d’s . My favorite climb on the crag (note that I only hopped on 4 of the lines) was the Wine of Purity (5.11a) that pulled a roof and then followed horizontal crimps to the anchors. There was also a fantastic 11d, Tipping the Vessel of Knowledge, that included a roof, crimps, long reaches, jugs and a mantel all within its 4 bolts and anchors. For shorter people like myself, it also entailed a dyno. Superb!

Shaft warming up on Sport Rappelling is Neither (5.9) that we later learned was bolted by Heath. =) Fun climb with some spice from the last bolt to the anchors.

Aaron running the Neophyte (5.10b). Moves included a heel hook and crimps.

Silhouette of Aaron on Tipping the Vessel of Knowledge (5.11d).

Part of the crew: Shaft, Aaron and Happy D.

Shaft and I enjoyed the best camping food of any of our trips yet. One night consisted of delectable corn on the cob (trust me, I am a corn on the cob connoisseur) and fired baked fillet mignon wrapped in bacon (the bacon being held on with widdled sticks). The next night we had spicey sausage and fried vegetables thanks to SP. We were definitely living the dream.

The bugs were a little out of hand, which seems to be common in the Uintas, but as shown in this picture can be "killed dead" as advertised, allowing Shaft to smile in spite.

Shaft, SP, the CB-gbers, Murphy and I headed up to Moosehorn area on Sunday as none of us had climbed in this area. The climbs we were hoping to ascend were unfortunately still covered in snow. So instead we did a couple short sport routes, carried Murphy in a backpack and watched the CB-gbers chase rocks down the snow field.

Murphy, SP’s Jack Russell, joined our trip last minute. The poor thing had a rough weekend, being bitten by one of the numerous dogs, completely tuckered after our 6 mile round trip hike into Notch Lake and then had to be carried in the back pack across an exposed section at rock.

The alpine chihuahua soaked up the last bit of sun after another great weekend.

Last year I received the best postal package from my friend H.I.P #1 that included his own personal boomerang that had accompanied him in his travels. The Boom then accompanied me through my climbing adventures (for instance in Joes Valley ) and was of course included in my recent trip to Squamish. Here she is smiling across the Canadian border. This pic is for you H.I.P. #1.

Shaft, the Cb-gbers and I took a two and half week climbing vacation in Squamish, Canada. British Columbia receives a fair bit of rain during the month of June, but we luckily encountered cooperative weather allowing us to climb everyday.

Driving through beautiful Oregon. At this rest stop we happened to meet a trucker who also owned a chihuahua.

The coastal views on the way to Squamish. In this area, scuba divers congregate to explore two sunken ships.

View of The Chief. While taking this picture a car stopped and the driver warned us of an approaching bear.

The Pemberton landscape.

Squamish and the outlying areas house thousands of routes and boulder problems. Shaft and I alternated between bouldering, trad and sport lines, taking one rest day to hike to the top of the Chief.

Me working ‘In Your Face’ in Pemberton.  This extremely fun v3 was on the Yosemite boulder that sits adjacent the railroad tracks.  The guidebook states to hide if a train is coming due to access concerns.

Shaft warming up at the SuperFly boulder in Squamish.

Shaft sending ‘Sloppy Poppy’, known to be one of the most popular v4’s in Squamish.

Me warming up on the Warm Up Traverse.

Me working ‘Bo Jo Jones’.  This problem consisted of numerous heel hooks. =)

Shaft roping up for routes at the Smoke Bluffs.

Me on Ancient Heart. This climb alone was worth the 15 hour drive to Canada. The 9 bolt 11c showcased numerous heel hooks, a boulder-y slopey crux and a crimpy top out. Pure magic!

Shaft on the third pitch of Deidre, our final climb in Squamish.  We had wanted to run it the day prior but were rained out, ending up bouldering instead.  We thankfully waited one more day, finishing up our trip beautifully with this classic line on The Chief.

Besides numerous days of setting up ropes and throwing out bouldering pads ….

Shaft continually munched on wild raspberries.

I made a new best friend.

We happen-stanced many bear sitings, two of which included dog-bear chases. For the record, the bear surprisingly ran away on both occasions.

We spotted logger truck collision signs.

And saw the biggest, ugliest slugs!

By the time we arrived home, the sweater-clad Cb-gbers was tuckered out, a sure sign of a successful trip.

Every once in awhile my tiny little feet are advantageous. I might not ever be able to find shoes for work, but on occasion I find climbing shoes on sale. Prior to my trip, I picked up a pair of Anasazis and Methos for $90 total, when they usually retail for $120 per pair. Oh yeah… thank you little feet.

Sorry for the lack of posts lately. I am on vacation with my friend Shaft and the CB-gbers in Squamish, British Columbia. It is so beautiful here, the climbing is superb, the temps have been good, and the surroundings remind me of Valdez, Alaska. Plus, we have seen MANY bears. I might post a couple posts while here, but perhaps not. It just isn’t a priority right now as I am focusing on relaxing in the sun and enjoying the view of The Chief.

In response to my previous post, thank you all for your support on the loss of my car. This past Wednesday it was found half a mile from my house with only the stereo gone and the glove box shuffled through. Can you believe that?! My good friend Mark went and identified it for me and lined up the towing (it is in drive-able condition but I took the key with me to Canada…doh! … and though I had mailed it to Mark, the car was found before the key arrived). It is now just waiting for me at his parent’s house. Thank you all for your support and for offering up your vehicles. And thank you Mark for taking car of all the details while I am away. I am truly lucky to have so many great people in my life.

Ok, I am off to go climb. =)

Hanging out in Venice, Italy with Warren and Joe.

For the past six years, I have taken either a foreign vacation or temporarily moved to a new U.S. destination. I have always gone solo, except for the 2007 trip where I met up with one of my dear Irish friends. The line up has included:

• 2002 - Denali Park, Alaska - I moved to Denali for a four month stint in order to earn money for school by waiting tables. However, unlike most folks, I worked only 5 days per week (equaling at least a 50 hour work week) and spent the weekends backpacking through the beautiful park. I saw tons of wildlife (bears, caribou, wolves, moose, mosquitoes of unbelievable size), fished in Valdez (caught my first and only salmon) but most surprisingly somehow caught a glimpse of Denali every weekend. I absolutely love Alaska. Seriously a breathtaking, wonderful place that has a very special place in my heart.
• 2003 - Europe - I backpacked around for six weeks hitting up parts of England, Scottland, Belgium, France, Spain, Italy, Germany and Switzerland. It was the typical whirlwind American trip, but real fun and the fist time out of the country on my own. I met a good handful of dear friends, such as this rockstar and a couple of these rockstars.
• 2004 - Chicago - I took a semester off school to go intern on the Chicago Board of Options Exchange. What an eye-opening, learning experience! At first I was unsure if I would like the city as I am an avid outdoorsy girl. Yet, it was quickly evident, upon moving there, that Chicago is a fantastic city with a superb arts scene, restaurants and of course sports. Go cubs!
• 2005 - China - I spent a month backpacking through China. Yes, I did this trip alone as well. It was a hard “vacation” due to major cultural differences and being continually sick … but fun none-the-less. I met a couple of very dear friends who I ended up traveling with for about 2.5 of the 4 weeks, plus had the chance to do a little climbing in Yangshuo.
• 2006 - Ireland - The China trip was quite exhausting, so I decided to go to a place in 2006 where I could at least speak the language. I was in the country for 2.5 weeks and had such a superb visit. Ireland is one of the friendliest countries as people continually offered to help me out, chat over a pint, etc. I also met a superb group of climbers, two of which I have become good friends with and who I often reference on this blog as HIP #1 and HIP #2. One of the main highlights was my birthday. As many of you know, my birthday is a BIG DEAL to me. This year I was hanging out with the fantastic crew of climbers, climbing in the Burren over my birthday weekend. I felt so lucky.
• 2007 - Thailand - This trip was the first trip where I met up with and traveled with a friend, HIP #1. We met in Bangkok and immediately traveled to Tonsai, where we spent the majority of our 2.5 week vacation. Tonsai might have been the best vacation yet because I was in a climber’s paradise surrounded by handfuls of beautiful beaches, enjoying all of it with one of my best friends.

This year I am traveling with my friend and current room mate Shaft. We are heading up to Squamish next Friday and will be gone until the 22nd. We are actually driving (gulp) as it is quite a bit cheaper and it will allow us to stop along the way (perhaps to visit some friends of mine in Seattle, stop to check out Rainier or possibly even stop in Oregon to climb…all still up in the air though). I am real excited as I feel in dire need of a vacation.

If you have traveled to Squamish, I would be real interested in chatting with you about your beta on climbs, places to camp, activities for rest days, etc. Feel free to post up in the comments or send an email to wasatchgirl at gmail.com.