After my time in Bishop, I stopped in Salt Lake City for a week (Week 34) to quickly visit friends, pack up my belongings, and drop CB at the dogsitter’s house. By week 35 I had taken the direct Salt Lake City to Paris flight followed by a train to Lyon. Lyon was a bit of a hard destination for me, but (of course) there were still plenty of positive aspects. The city truly was amazing with fabulous architecture and excellent food (I tried my first snails and frog legs, loving both of them immensely). And the stop in Lyon forced me to take a week break from climbing, a much needed rest period.
I stopped by Lyon because it was a mere couple hours from Fontainebleau and wanted to visit my friend, David, who I had meet in the Red River Gorge. Here is David on the day I arrived. We stopped by his favorite bar for a couple drinks prior to catching a fabulous meal at a neighboring restaurant.
I hadn’t visited Europe since 2003. I truly love Europe… with it’s history, architecture, culture and wide spread use of bikes. =)
This building, La Fresque Des Lyonnais, was fabulous. I saw this painting on a walk during the day, but completely missed the other side of the building, the side that holds the main beauty. David was actually excited I had missed it so that he could personally take me there that evening. The whole building was painted from top to bottom with a popular figures from Lyon history either walking down the street or peering out each window. On my last evening in Lyon I spent a good amount of time simply enjoying this piece of artwork as the sun set.
The bridge over the Saone river at night.
We ended up playing a lot of cards in Lyon. Pierre, on the left, really loved Texas Hold ‘Em. I actually love the game as well, but hadn’t played for years. One night we watched the football game (soccer for us Americans) at Pierre’s house while playing poker and drinking wine and champagne. It was one of my best nights in Lyon.
Surprisingly, my favorite thing about Lyon was the graffiti. I loved it! It seems most of the graffiti I have seen in the States are scribbled letters. But the graffiti in Lyon were mainly of characters, simply etched on the wall… almost adding to the atmosphere.
I really liked this character, exclaiming his love for Lyon while marching on the bridge.
And yet another one. I seriously have more pictures of graffiti than anything else in Lyon. =) I spent a lot of time walking around and simply enjoyed stumbling across the vivid paintings.
In the original Best Car for the Road post, I mentioned my friend Prairie and her van. At the time of the post I didn’t have any pics of her van, so thought I would simply create this additional post as an addendum.
In my opinion, Prairie’s set up is a type of Dream Vehicle for the road. It might not be as great on gas as a small car, but it definitely is more comfortable and provides some privacy.
The mini-van provides plenty of space, yet isn’t a huge beast. Prairie had it arranged so all her belongings were organized in stacks, creating a true home atmosphere.
The other side of the car, from the packed point of view.
Her bed was at the very back creating an open “room” where she could move around.
Another view of the inside. Yep, her vehicle definitely looks a lot moe cozy than my Honda civic set-up. =)
What about you readers? Have you done a long trip where you lived in your vehicle? If so, what do you suggest?
Bishop was the last U.S. bouldering destination I visited before heading over to Europe.It was also my favorite bouldering destination due to the superb rock quality, the immense amount of problems, but also the enjoyable and chill climber “scene”.
Best Time to Visit
Bishop is similar to most bouldering destinations where the best time to go is when temps are in the 50 ‘s.I believe people winter here, but it definitely gets a bit cold during the true winter months.I think the optimal months are fall and spring.
Length of Stay
I was in Bishop for 5 weeks, albeit one week was nursing a sprained ankle. I felt like I had explored the area well, yet still hadn’t even seen ½ of the areas.For instance I only visited the Buttermilks, Happies and Sads, missing out on the other three areas covered in the book.A visit could easily consist of a couple months, if not longer.
How To Get There
Directions to the city of Bishop are quite straightforward.Further directions are needed to find the crags, but the guidebook includes sufficient instructions.If still lost, stop in at Wilsons (on Main street) for directions.
Guidebook
The Bishop guidebook, similar to the Hueco and Red River Gorge books, is phenomenal.It is called Bishop Bouldering and is written by Wills Young.The only downside, and it is a HUGE downside, is the lack of an index.You can either reference page numbers or download an index from here.
Classic Climbs
There are numerous are classics in Bishop, which I have already written up here.
Camping
There are two main places to camp.
The Buttermilks – It is free to camp in the Buttermilks plus, depending on your camp site, it is possible to be walking distance from the climbing. Note that the Buttermilks are located higher than town and The Pit, meaning it will definitely be cooler at night. The downside to camping here is town is 30 minutes away.
The Pit – Cost to camp is $2 per car per campsite. It is located 15 minutes from town and is the main climber hangout. The downside is it will be louder than the Buttermilks.
Pat’s tent in the Buttermilks. Photo by Pat Lionais.
Food / Drink
There are two markets in town. Vons is definitely the bigger of the two with the selection allowing you to find most anything you might want. The other is the Manor Market that sells some organic foods, has a very good wine selection, sells delicious dried bananas and supposedly has cheap sushi on Friday afternoons. If wanting to eat out, check out the following:
Yamatani – Surprisingly good sushi place, with the best items being off menu. My favorite (off menu, of course) was Mt. Fuji which is a Mexican inspired dish with a mixture of fish, avacado and sriracha served on a fried wonton. Hmmmmmm…. delicious.
The Bowling Alley – The bowling alley has the best and cheapest burgers in town.
Whisky Creek – Good food but a titch over priced. Best to go there at Happy Hour which is daily between 5 – 6.
Las Palmas – The Mexican place behind the Black Sheep, located on Line Street.
Bishop Grill – Wanting a typical American breakfast of bacon and eggs? The Bishop Grill is the place to go.
Schatz Bakery – A must stop! Definitely try the chili cheese bread.
Great Basin Bakery – This bakery is an easy stop on the way to the Buttermilks and is where the locals stop.
Personal Hygiene
There are two laundromats in town, both of which have showers. The one located closest to The Looney Bean, Sierra Suds, has a bit nicer shower facility. Showers are also available at Kenough Hot Springs.
Wi-Fi
There are two main coffee shops in town, The Looney Bean and The Black Sheep. Both have free wireless, but The Black Sheep’s is exponentially better! Both coffee shops are main climber hangouts, but the scene at The Black Sheep is definitely better mostly because of the setting and folks running the counter. The Black Sheep is located at the back of Spell Binder books.
Rest Day Activities
Keough Hot Springs – The hot springs are actually a perfect after climbing treat. There are two options at the same approximate location. The resort of Kenough Hot Springs is a paid service where the springs are cemented off and showers are accessible. However, most climbers go after 7:30 when the resort closes and releases all the hot water to the down stream to the free area. Note: As a female I would not go to the free area alone.
Mammoth – Mammoth is quite closeby. I actually wished I had my snowboarding gear as Mammoth resort was having a good ski year.
Mono Lake Tufa Reserver – I didn’t know about this area until after I left Bishop. From the pictures I saw, I think this is a must see on a rest day.
Other
Injuries – I’ve noticed each area has its own type of injuries, but the sprained and broken ankle is definitely the demise of Bishop due to the high-ball problems. It wouldn’t hurt to take pre-emptive measures and tape up your ankles if you have had past injuries.
I currently have two friends (Ben Grubb and Ben Sales) on a road trip in the U.S. with their current destination being Bishop, CA. I thought I would keep up my recent tradition (started with the Hueco list) of listing my favorite problems per area as sometimes my favorites vary from the listed area classics. (Listed problems that are crossed out mean it is an area classic according to the guidebook, but I think it is one to definitely skip.)
A climber on Pope’s Prow. Photo by Frank Wu.
v0
Unnamed on the Sunshine Boulder – (Buttermilks) This climb actually gets a v0- rating, but it is pretty scary because of the height. It is a great warmup for the Buttermilks as it gets the head thinking for the day.
Hero’s Roof – (Buttermilks) Enjoyable.
China Doll – (Sads) Highball that looks like a spine.
Unnamed on the Small Boulder next to Leary / Bard Boulder – (Buttermilks) It is actually a v0-, but it still managed to toss me off 4 times… making me love the problem even more. =)
v1
A Birthing Experience – (Buttermilks) The hardest v1 you will ever try because it doesn’t take “usual” climbing techniques. Instead you will have to start perfectly laying down and implement elbow scums. So fun… I tried and DID NOT send. Ha ha! Perfect climb when you need to take a break and have some good laughs.
Buttermilk Stem – (Buttermilk) A hard v1 but another good intro to the Buttermilks.
One Pull – (Happies) Actually has a bit of a committing move.
Immigration in The Media – (Happies)
The Great Dominions – (Sads)
The Black Stuff – (Sads) Awesome! Bring pads.
v2
60 foot Woman Traverse – (Happies) Surprisingly hard because it is so long.
InterSactum – (Bishop) A little tricky. It unfortunately doesn’t top out, but good.
Still Life – (Sads)
Doug doing a high step on Birthday Direct. Photo by Frank Wu.
v3
Birthday Direct – (Buttermilks) Perhaps the hardest v3 I have ever seen. I attempted it 10 times and did not send (no matter what Steve H. claims. Thanks for your optimism, Steve.) =)
Slap Happy – (Happies) Reachy, but good.
Solarium – (Happies) This is one HARD v3. Wouldn’t call it a classic per se. Don’t feel badly skipping it.
v4
Ironman Traverse - (Buttermilks) This is the problem you often see photographed from Bishop. Great line.
Sucker Punch – (Happies) One move wonder, yet still quite fun.
Me on Serengetti, being spotted by Pang. Photo by Frank Wu.
v5
Strength in Numbers – (Sads) Tall problem, but the holds are surprisingly good.
Go Granny Go – (Buttermilks)
Go Granny Go Variation – (Buttermilks) The direct version of this problem probably has a harder move in it, but I liked the flow of the variation better.
Serengetti – (Happies)
Pain Grain – (Buttermilks) Hurts and quite scary, but you feel like a rockstar when you send. =) There is a v7 sit as well.
Mr. Happy – (Happies) Sharp, but a good example of Bishop pocketed line.
Son of Claudius Rufus – (Happies) Fun traverse. Perfect problem if nursing a sprained ankle because it is close to the ground.
Molly – This is listed as a classic. I hate it. Skip this problem!
v6
Rio’s Crack – (Sads) This was an excellent climb. Definitely in my top 3 of favorite Bishop climbs.
Pope’s Prow – (Buttermilks) Technical line. Make sure to pad up the bottom, even though it isn’t “too” high. I did see someone rip off and really mess up their ankles while trying to do the last mantel.
Unnamed on the Leary / Bard Boulder – (Buttermilks) Not sure why this problem doesn’t get a name because it is great. The last move of going to the patina flake is reachy for the short person, which feels quite scary.
Milk the Milks – (Buttermilks) This line has a biggish throw, crimp traverse and then finishes up on slab. Perfect!
Atari – (Happies) I did not get to climb this problem due to the sprained ankle. But it looks so stunningly beautiful sitting up on the hillside. Someone please go send this one for me. =)
Strength in Numbers Variation – (Sads)
Every Color You Are - (Happies) Fun!
Fly Boy Stand – (Buttermilks) Core intensive! Yes, you start at the big jug… and yes, it is still hard.
Green Wall Center- (Buttermilks) The moves were just ok, but the face of the climb is gorgeous.
v7
High Plains Drifter – (Buttermilks) This problem really does not need any description. Just do it! Or, in my case, attempt to send it… but hopefully it doesn’t also give you fellow readers a sprained ankle. =) The line is so great, that it was worth the sprained ankle.
Morning Dove White – (Happies) I loved this line because it was beautiful. Unfortunately I was sick the day I stopped by and then I sprained my ankle. I must admit that I was incredibly sad that I never got to properly work this line. =(
Junior’s Achievement – (Buttermilks) Extremely sharp, but I still liked it.
Travis on Checkerboard.
v8
Fly Boy Sit – (Buttermilks) This was my all time favorite climb in Bishop! Great line that flows nicely and still has a heart flutter finish. Definitely try, but make sure to have a lot of pads. It isn’t called Fly Boy without reason.
PowPow – (Sads) – simply excellent!
Checkerboard – (Buttermilks) Very aesthetic line, though quite difficult for the short person. I was struggling to get through the middle section and the real reachy area is near the end.
v9
Moon Raker – (Buttermilks) I loved this line because it includes movement that just seems improbable to find on a route. Technique needed includes heel hooks, heel-toe cam and the ability to stop the massive swing.
Soul Slinger – (Buttermilks) This seems to be a favorite of most people. You shouldn’t have too hard of a time finding a sea of pads underneath it.
Remember that you are in Bishop, land of the high-ball problems. Take lots of pads!
Once again, I didn’t hop on anything harder than v9 meaning my list caps out at this level. Do you readers have any suggestions? Please list up any problems you suggest in the comments. =)
As I mentioned in the previous post, after Hueco Tanks I made the 15 hour trek to Bishop, California. I did stop in Joshua Tree, but only for a couple days and rather to rest up and enjoy the scenery than to really climb.
I was excited to roll into Bishop. I had been there years ago, when I had first started to climb, and it was nice to come back with a little bit of climbing knowledge. Pictured are The Buttermilks. Photo by Frank Wu.
During the time I was in Bishop, I saw a handful of SLC’ers who had come out for a long weekend. It had been a long time since I had seen the SLC crew! One weekend Travis and Wen made the drive and we spent all weekend climbing and laughing. It was fabulous! Here is Travis working the moves of “Saigon”.
Both “FlyBoy” problems, the stand and the sit, are absolute must do’s. The sit for sure was my all time favorite problem in Bishop. It truly was fantastic!
A lot happened on this particular day. Tim and I sent the “FlyBoy Sit”, while poor Steve fell from the lip and broke one ankle and horribly sprained the other. Two days later I sprained my ankle on High Plains Drifter. The result? Steve and I had plenty of time to hang out, sip tea and become excellent friends. I am off to visit him and Tim in Leeds tomorrow. =)
Another fabulous line, “Morning Dove White”, that starts in a sequence of pockets then finishes on what I hear is a heart fluttery top out. Unfortunately I sprained my ankle before I could properly work this one… bummer, as I really liked the line. Pictured is Jason. Photo by Frank Wu.
Me on “Disco Diva”. I didn’t make it much farther than where I am pictured. Ha ha! Photo by Frank Wu.
My two favorite shots from my road trip were both taken by Frank Wu. The boulder in the picture above also has a v10 dyno line on the right side. This guy climber was consistently trying it, finally sticking the line at the moment that Frank captured this shot. Unbelievable! Can my dog be any more unimpressed? Thanks for the photo, Frank.
Me on a tall v1 (I am currently forgetting the name). Photo by Merrick Ales.
“High Plains Drifter” was one of my favorite problems. The problem ends about 20+ feet up, but most people top out the whole boulder, down climbing the crack on the right side. I loved this problem, but did not send (falling from the start of the crux). I instead just took away the below sprained ankle. Photo by Frank Wu.
I thought the sprain was quite mild, this picture being taken the morning after it happened. Yet as I write this blog post it has been 7 weeks and my ankle remains a cankle.
This boulder isn’t in the book but houses a handful of excellent problems. Here is Sunset Head working the crux of the most right problem.
MP on “Checkerboard”. Aesthetic line, but quite reachy for us short folks.
Me working the moves on “Devoted”. Picture by Dan Brayack.
Fellow climber (whose name I did not catch) working Moonraker. I really loved this problem because it required all these fancy moves plus the crux was the ability to slow down this epic swing. One of my most fun days in Bishop was with a crew of friends, all working this problem and jamming out to old-school hits like ‘YMCA’ and ‘Come on Eileen’.
And of course, a blog post about Bishop must include a picture of the Ironman Traverse. A tricky v4 regardless if you know the sequence. Picture by Dan Brayack.
My Bishop “office” and fellow co-workers. =) Steve, on the left, is home in Leeds and I am off to see him tomorrow. Aaron, on the right and closest to the camera, is back in Kentucky for a few weeks longer before hitting the road again. And I am not sure where Dave, sitting behind Aaron, is currently located.
I met this crazy kid, Michael Pang, on my last few days in Bishop. He was hilarious! A climber, fellow working professional, who still loves to sleep in his car and happened to be camped in the same parking lot that I was in. Ha ha. I’m hoping to catch up with him when I get home.
I met a lot of great people in Bishop. On this particular day I was supposed to be resting, but went out climbing solely for the reason that Prairie was in town. Prairie and I ended up never catching up, but I made friends with an awesome group and ended up having one of my best climbing days. Best of all, at the end of the day my cheeks hurt more from laughing than my fingertips from climbing. Photo by Jeff Fox.
After 8 months on the road and 5 weeks in Bishop, the fingers started to look quite gruesome. I like to pretend like guys find this attractive.
From Bishop, California I drove home to SLC to spend a week and half hanging out with friends and resting the ankle I had managed to sprain in California.(My Bishop pics and trip beta will soon be forthcoming.)
From SLC I caught the direct SLC to Paris flight, spending four weeks in France before heading over to the United Kingdom.My first 5 days in France were spent in Lyon visiting my friend David (pics also coming soon), then I drove to Fontainebleau. I am still in Bleau and will be here for a couple more weeks. So far Bleau is hands down my favorite destination I have visited on this road trip adventure. Below are some pics of the last two weeks…
Me working Graviton. Such a great line with a heartbreaker finish.
Guillaume on the Red 13 traverse at Canche Aux Mercier. Fabulous line! Guillaume was introduced to me by my friend David and has been a great friend here in Fontainebleau. He has generously allowed me to crash at his house (located in a village outside of Bleau called La Vaudaue) and is always excited to get out climbing with me. =)
Jussi on Helicopter. I had heard that this problem was an ankle eater… but silly old me hopped on anyway because it looked like an enjoyable problem. After attempting it about four times, I feel from the crux “helicopter” move and re-tweaked my already sprained ankle. Argh!
Juho sending Druxmanie. =) I really liked this climb and am hoping to go back for another try at the send.
Me on La Marie Rose.
Working the crux topout of La Statique.
Jussi getting so close to sticking Vin Rouge, a 7a dyno.
One day I met three Finnish guys, Jussi, Juho and Tuomo, and ended up meeting up with them on 3 different days to climb. Tuormo worked for a Finnish television company and had this great 8mm camera that rattled loudly while in use. He took a handful of footage on the days we climbed together. Here he was taking footage of an excellent traverse at Fronchard Isatis. The traverse isn’t named but is on #29 on the Red Circuit. Good times!
I visited White Sands National Park on a rest day while in Hueco Tanks. I was there for only a day, but it immediately topped my list of favorite national parks. I would highly recommend stopping by if near the Las Cruces, New Mexico area.
The rolling white sand dunes looked like fresh white powder. I even saw a family sledding down the dunes on toboggans. =)
Every once in awhile, vegetation can be spotted on the horizon.
Tracks in the sand. It was actually real hard to take pictures because the reflection of the sun on the white sand was so bright and my eyes were very senstive. I had to wear a hat and sunglasses to see, and I am pretty sure I was still squinting.
CB loved it there! She would run to the next sand dune… run back….
and then would need to sleep for a minute. =)
I would suggest going on the trail in the middle of the park. (I’m sorry, but I can’t remember the name right now.) It is miles long, but going only a mile out is further than the usual visitor and provides the best views of the dunes. Just make sure to follow the above markers as it would be extremely easy to get lost.
The “best” car for the road is quite a subjective topic as it depends more on what is important to you than the actual vehicle itself. Things to consider include:
How much do you want to spend on gasoline?
Is your current vehicle reliable? Or should you buy a new one?
How many people are going on the trip? (If traveling with another person, a car is probably NOT IDEAL as the car becomes your home and it is nice to have some space.)
How much space do you need to feel comfortable and happy? And how important is complete privacy (i.e. the windows of a car vs. the enclosure of a van)?
Basically there are three main options. The biggest variables are space versus gasoline prices, giving up one for the other.
The Dream Home
I saw some fantastic van set-ups on the road, thinking especially of Prairie’s and Nick’s vehicles. I unfortunately did not take any pictures. Argh! I have emailed Prairie and hopefully will have some pictures to post up for you soon. Basically the best van setup is where the bed is located at the very back by the back door allowing the middle of the van to be open. Both of my friends had constructed their belongings to be in stacks or built shelves, creating an atmosphere of a true room.
Along these same lines is the camper setup. It doesn’t provide as much spare room as a van, but still creates a true home feeling..
Amy’s and Tripp’s camper setup.
The Lil Chicka posted her old travel vehicle on her blog. You can see how they were able to organize in stacks, creating some walking space.
The Runner Up
Many people travel in SUVs or mini vans were the backseat is removed and the whole back is made into a bed, creating a storage space underneath the bed.
This picture is from TheRockClimberGirl blog. I traveled in a similar setup for about a week and it was very comfortable and worked well, requiring very little re-arrangement for sleeping.
The Tight Squeeze
For the penny pinches, traveling by car is an option.
Pierre traveled in this little car but had taken out the back seat and built a bed area that allowed him to lay flat, albeit with limited wiggle room.
When his car was completely packed up, it looked like this.
My Set Up = Tight Squeeze
I ended up with the tight squeeze approach because…
When I left home gasoline prices were $3.50 a gallon. I knew I would be traveling a lot and didn’t know how to forecast future fuel prices.
My Honda was very reliable and I trusted it to be able to go the whole trip, which it did.
I was traveling solo and so a tight squeeze approach could work for me.
I was content with the limited privacy and space.
I kept the front fairly clean so that CB could sit on the passenger side if she needed a break from the backseat.
I slept in the backseat, having this bed basically set up at all times. The only thing I had to move when wanting to sleep was the crashpad (as it was stored on my bed) from the backseat to the front seat. (Yes… I slept in the backseat of my car…. for almost the entire 8 months.)
Most of my belongings were in the trunk. Near the end of the trip I had organized everything into bins to ensure dryness as moisture liked to seep into my trunk (a fact I did not know as it never rains in Utah). The empty spot in the picture was used for my cooler.
Have you been on the road before? If so, what was your setup? And what did you think about it?
Usually guidebooks include a list of area classic, which was the case in the Hueco Tanks guide; however, sometimes my favorites vary from those of the author. For instance, many of the classics in the Hueco guidebook were high balls, which I don’t really enjoy (in fact usually skipped). So I have started to compile some of my favorite lines in each area I visit, with the following being my Hueco list.
V0
Small Potatoes area includes a whole handful of fabulous v0 – v2 climbs. (Small Potatoes, North Mountain)
V1
Orifice Affair – (Lunch Rock area, North Mountain)
V2
Name? – (Small Potatoes, North Mountain) There is a prow climb in the small potatos area. I can’t remember the name now (and I am sans guidebook as I am sitting in France) but remember this line being real fun.
V3
La Delicate – (New Meadow, North Mountain) Technical slab climb.
Ostersizer – (Backountry) This fun line is located in the backcountry next to Hobbit in a Blender.However, I learned after I left that a huge chunk of it came off during the Rock Rodeo, splicing a brand new pad in half.
Sign of the Cross – (Sign of the Cross, North Mountain) Tricky!If you can’t reach the starting holds, get a boost.Do-able, just takes a little time to figure out (at least for me).
V4
Girls of Juarez – (Upper Lost Boulder, North Mountain)
Moonshine Roof – (Backcountry) This roof includes a big first move that traverses into an intriguing surfboard feature, with a consistent finish.
Warmup Roof – (Backcountry)
T-Bone Shuffle – (North Mountain)
V5
Lobster Claw – (New Meadow, North Mountain) Fabulous line with many beta variations.
Jigsaw Puzzle – (Backcountry)
DragonFly – (Backcountry)
V6
King Cobra – (New Meadow, North Mountain) Powerful! The finish looks so straightforward, but watch out as that heel hook likes to spit that heel right out.
See Spot – (Big Time Boulder, North Moutain) Quite a tall problem that I did not send and probably never will. =)
Baby Martini – (Martini Cave, North Mountain)
V7
Big Iron on His Hip – (Martini Cave, North Mountain) This might have been my all time favorite climb at Hueco.The sit start is popular line Dirty Martini, but if you are like me and can’t climb v9 right now this is a perfect alternative that includes all the enjoyable moves. =)In order to send I had to use a bicycle, heel-toe cam and this great campus cross move.SO FUN!
Roughage – (Lunch Rocks, North Mountain)
Speedbump – (New Meadow, North Mountain) This is a great line because it is so easy with the right beta and so hard otherwise.The key move is a weird heel hook that seems impossible, but completely unocks the problem.
Guns of Navarone – (North Moutain) A new line not in the book, located near Baby Face and Daily Dick Dose.I actually never got the chance to try it, but it looks superb. Real long and crimpy, with the crimps supposedly becoming more positive the further you climb.
V8
Chris’s Arete – (North Mountain) The climb is said to be soft for the grade, and to be honest I agree with that assessment. Regardless if it is a v7 or v8, try it… it is fun!
Something Different – (Backcountry) Only worked on this climb one day, but the moves (especially the beginning moves if you are shorter like myself) were intriguing.
Sex after Death – (Backcountry) Hello crimps!
V9
Dirty Martini – (Martini Cave, North Mountain) This is the only v9 that I hopped on.The climb felt ok except for the shut down first move. If you can pull this incredibly hard first move, the rest will be a cake walk.
I am missing some location details, which I will fill in when I get home from France.
Hueco Tanks at sunset. Photo by the beautiful Suzy Q.
Hueco Tanks is a premier bouldering destination located in El Paso, Texas with 1700+ boulder problems. (Please note that I had a house to stay in with friends while in Hueco, so much of this write-up is information I gathered from other climbers.)
Best Time to Visit
Hueco Tanks is a winter destination with the climbing season being from November to March, with the prime season being December to February. Expect it to still be quite warm during these months as the average temperature during my stay, from January 15 – February 15, was mid-60′s.
Length of Stay
The climbing is so numerous that a many month trip might still not be sufficient. I stayed for exactly a month and felt like I had just scratched the surface on the bouldering, and had yet to check out a single route.
How to Get There
Hueco Tanks is quite straightforward to locate. While in El Paso, navigate your way to Montana Avenue (also known as US-180 / US-62). Follow this road East until you see Hueco Tanks / Ranch Road. Make a left turn and follow this road to the visitor center of the park.
Guidebook
The guidebook is called Hueco Tanks and is authored by Matt Wilder and published by Wolverine.It is a phenomenal guidebook, making each area and problem easy to locate due to the inclusion of its 300+ color photos.
Climbing in Hueco
Hueco Tanks has a handful of rules and regulations. Basically there are 4 climbing area: North Mountain (the main area) and West Mountain, East Mountain and the East Spur (all 3 of referred to as the backcountry). North Mountain allows 70 climbers per day, 60 by reservation and 10 walk ins, with a cost of $5 per person. To make a reservation, call Texas Parks and Wildlife at 512-389-8900. The earlier you make a reservation the better, with people making reservations a year in advance.
To access the backcountry, you must have a guide. I believe there are 3 ways to line up a guide: commercial tours, volunteer tours and personal guide (meaning you personally know someone who is a guide and willing to take you out). Commercial tours are (I believe) ran out of the Rock Ranch and consist of groups of 10 people, $20 per person. The volunteer tours are free but it sounds like you are at the mercy of the crowd. My facts on these two types of tours could be a little off as I only went on tours with friends. If I were to do it again, I would strive to hop on more volunteer tours.
Classic Climbs
There are so many must do problems in Hueco, I am going to make this point its own blog post.
Camping
Hueco Tanks Park – there is camping in the park, ranging from $12 – 16 per night.The upside of this camping is you are located right in the park.The cons include no dogs and gates shut at 6pm (meaning you can not drive in or out after 6pm. Boo!).
Rock Ranch – the Rock Ranch is located within a mile of the Park.The cost to camp is $5 a night, but discounted to $4 per night if staying for longer than 14 days. This is the main climber hang out and dogs are welcome.
BLM Land – there is free camping on BLM land.I don’t know where it is located exactly (but could find out if one of you readers are interested).I just heard it was a little sketchy for the lone woman traveler, which I am.
Food / Drink
Vista Market – Vista is a Mexican grocery store that sells the best home made tortillas and salsa.Must stop!
Burrito Joint – I can’t remember the name of this burrito place, but it has excellent burritos and tacos for mere dollars.It is located down the street from the Vista Market on Montana.It is a main hang out for climbers after a full day on the rock.
El Ranchito – located on Montana and has quite good Mexican food with excellent margaritas
Cattelamans – supposedly a great steak house, but I did not make it out that way.
Personal Hygiene
Showers – there is a shower at the Rock Ranch and I believe at the Park campground. Otherwise, climbers frequent the YMCA and local gyms.
Laundromats – a variety of laundromats can be found through El Paso.
Wi-fi
There is wifi in the park and at the ranger station. I think you are supposed to use this wifi only if you are a paid camper, but I believe most climbers would just walk over from the Rock Ranch.
Rest Day Activities
I usually worked on my rest days while in Texas, so don’t have too much advice in this area. Below are a few suggestions.
White Sands National Park – I did take CB to this National Park and it was one of my favorite stops on my trip. The brilliant white sand looks like mountains covered in powder, including a handful of tourists sledding down the billows. It is definitely worth the mere couple hour drive.
El Paso – El Paso does have a lot to offer including a handful of museums and theaters.
Carlsbad Caverns – I did not visit the caverns, located within a couple hour drive, but hear it is a worthy destination.
Juarez, Mexico - Juarez is a mere 30 minute drive. In the past it was common for climbers to cross over the border to explore the neighboring country. However, when I was visiting there was a lot of unrest and violence, especially in Juarez. I only knew of one climber who made the trek on a rest day.
Petroglyph tour – Hueco provides art tours of the many petroglyphs within the park. I hear the tours are fabulous, but did not go on one.
Other
Dogs – no dogs are allowed in the park (including the campground), nor can you keep them in your car due to the heat. The Rock Ranch does allow dogs to roam free on the lot, but this alternative didn’t quite work for me as I would have been nervous leaving CB (a chihuahua) to fend for herself.
The Scene – the scene in Hueco is intense! Whew! Expect your visit to include fabulous climb after fabulous climb, but also expect to hear name dropping and lots of discussion of 8a cards. Expect to daily see v12′s crushed and don’t be surprised at all the photographers and their mass of gear. The climbing still makes it worth the trip, but the scene was by far my least favorite out of all the destinations I visited. I even heard a guy comment that he couldn’t send his project because of his shoelaces. Really?! Come on.
If you have any additional beta, please feel free to comment or email me.
