Rainbow seen on the walk down from the Millstone.

I thought that a similar listing of my favorite Wasatch routes by grade (updating this post as I continue to climb) might be of use to readers. The following routes are listed as name, grade (broken down by letter grade for 5.10 and above), location and my comments.

Shaft on Wrecking Ball (5.10 - 11) with SP on Hollow Man (5.9).

5.7 Routes

• Maudlin – Salt Lake Slips, Big Cottonwood – This is a new route to the left of Italian Arete. It is long, requiring a 70mm rope and 12 quickdraws. Great for beginners.

5.8 Routes

• Geronimo – S-Curves Upper Wall, Big Cottonwood – Fun!

5.9 Routes

• Hollow Man – Challenge Buttress West Face, Big Cottonwood - Great warmup with fun “Big Cottonwood” moves.
• Ionic Binding (9+) – S-Curves Lower Wall, Big Cottonwood – I have learned to really enjoy this climb, even though it gives me flash pump ever time I run it. I swear 9+ is one of the hardest grades. =)
• There are two fun 5.9’s at Storm Mountain. The wall is newer and not in the guide book. I will update when I figure out the names and area. They are in essence right across from the small reservoir.

Goreham leading Litmus Test (5.11c).

5.10 Routes

• Caress of Steel (5.10a) – The Membrane, American Fork - The foot holds are a little polished, but it is definitely still worth one’s time. An AF Classic.
• Twist And Shout (5.10a) – The Escape Buttress, American Fork – This climb has a warm spot in my heart because it was my first 5.10 lead / redpoint.
• Total X (5.10a/b) – The Watch Tower, Ferguson – This is a mixed route with the bottom being a 5.8 gear line with the top bolted section being a 5.10 pump-fest. Fun!
• Uncensored Society (5.10b) - The Watch Tower, Ferguson - One of Ferguson’s best.
• Hidden Agenda (5.10b) - Industrial Wall, Little Cottonwood - Great slab route, which means I did not lead it nor ever will. =) However, if you love slab or are top roping, definitely do this route.
• Union Dues (5.10b) - Industrial Wall, Little Cottonwood - Another great slab route, which means I top-roped. If you love slab or on a top rope, this one is splendid. =)
• Salem’s Lot (5.10c) – Salt Lake Slips, Big Cottonwood – Cragbaby readers might disagree on this route, but for some reason I love this line. The book doesn’t give it many stars, but I think I like it because it was one of the first 10’s I ever worked on. I remember top-roping it on numerous occasions and being scared of falling into the huge pine tree when starting to lead.
• Wrecking Ball (5.10 - 5.11′ish) – Challenge Buttress West Face, Big Cottonwood – This climb is to the left of Hollow Man and pulls a roof with a couple tricky moves. Some call it a 11b, some say it is easier.
• Winky and Waxman Go Bolting Extension – (5.10 – 11’ish) – Challenge Buttress West Face, Big Cottonwood – Link the Winky and Waxman line (the book says 11b, but I think it is more like a 10) with the long 5.10 line that finishes at the top of the crag. Fun and pumpy!
• Cecret Lake Wall, Albion Basin, Little Cottonwood - the whole wall is a row of 5.10s, with each climb better than the next.  The surrounding is a beautiful meadow with a stream by the crag.

The Route Slayer on Right Pile (5.11d).

5.11 Routes

• Black Monday (5.11a) – Lower S Curves, Big Cottonwood – Uber classic! I have yet to meet a person who does NOT like this climb.
• Stone Ground (11b) - Millstone, Big Cottonwood – Due to the bolting, I think this route seems hard for the grade. The moves are fantastic, but it is quite a bit heady.
• Misery (5.11b) – Broad’s Fork, Big Cottonwood – The book only gives this route one star, but I think it is a fun line that includes lots of stemming. Plus it is surrounded by other great climbs.
• Firewoman (5.11b) – The Watchtower, American Fork – Crimpy and fun! Seemed hard for the grade.
• Primal Magic (5.11b) – The Hard Rock, American Fork – The AF guide doesn’t give this route any stars, but I really like it.
• High Dive (5.11b/c) – S-Curve Upper Wall, Big Cottonwood – This is the second pitch above Geronimo. Short, sweet, and very similar to Black Monday.
• Eight to Eleven (5.11b/c) – The Hard Rock South Face, American Fork – A two pitch, very enjoyable route!
• License to Thrill (5.11c) – The Membrane, American Fork - Just go do it! One of the classics!
• Litmus Test (5.11c) - Division Wall, American Fork – Easier climb with one tricky move over the roof. A good first 11c.
• Right Pile (5.11d) – The Pile, Big Cottonwood - I absolutely love this climb as it was my nemesis for almost a year. Very hard, pumpy 11d that I finally sent with the use of two heel-toe cams and numerous attempts. A must do!
• Reaching for Razors (5.11d) - Hell, American Fork - Some people mention that this climb is polished (as it is one of the very few warmups in Hell), but I found it to be superb.
• Mach (5.11d) – The Speed Trap, Big Cottonwood – The book gives it only one star, but I really like this climb. Note that between the 4th and 5th bolt it is quite heady as it seems a bit run-out, though the holds are all there.
• Dumb Broads (5.11d) – Broad’s Fork, Big Cottonwood – Pumpy little thing!

Brian on Gordon’s Link-up (5.12a).

5.12 Routes

• Liquid Oxygen (5.12a) - Division Wall, American Fork - Uber classic!
• Naked Nebula (5.12a) – White Wave Wall, American Fork - I hate the slab portion of the climb, but the actual 12a climbing is a beautiful jug / heel hook haul.
• All Chalk and No Action (5.12a) - Perhaps Area, Little Cottonwood - Beautiful!
• Gordon’s Linkup (5.12a) - Dingo Boy Wall, Upper Membrane - Boulderey start with pockets the rest of the way.
• Big in Japan (5.12b) - Storm Mountain, Big Cottonwood – Interesting, but scary.
• Isotoner Moaner (5.12a/b) – Division Wall West Face, American Fork - Thin with a couple distinct cruxes (at least for me).
• Left Pile (5.12b) - The Pile, Big Cottonwood – This might be one of my favorite routes. Great movement, with a safe fall.
• Beeline (5.12b) – The Billboard , American Fork – Long with two cruxes, but real fun.

Triznut leading Big in Japan (5.12b).

Other Wasatch routes that I hear are classic, but I have yet to try include the following. If interested in getting on these lines, drop me a line.

• Concrete Jungle (5.11c) – Tower of Babel, Ferguson
• Step Right Up (5.12a) - The Watchtower, American Fork
• Mission Control (5.12a) - Cannabis Wall, American Fork
• Teeanova (5.11d / 12a) - The Hard Rock, American Fork
• Fuego (5.12a) – Tower of Babel, Ferguson

Sorry, but my list caps out at 12b as that is the hardest grade I have actively worked, merely toproping a couple 12cs. I will keep the list updated and would welcome any route suggestions from you readers.

Me drinking the celebratory Pabst that Shaft secretly brought to the crag.

Yet, the taste of victory lingers only until the next time on the rock. Left Pile was a climb of my preferred style: steep, big jugs that turned to crimps and then a fun dynamic throw to a huge sinker. But this year I am trying to expand my climbing abilities to include areas where I am not so comfortable, especially trad climbing and slab faces…. and it is SCARY!

Triznut on Stone Ground at The Millstone.

Within days of sending Left Pile, I headed up to the Millstone to be completely scared on Cat Juggling (5.10c) due to a single slab move. I finally finished the lead, but only after whining and moaning for a good 20 minutes (or more!). Soon after I went to Industrial Wall to come down early from Assembly Line, a mere 5.7 slab lead, completely scared of the possible fall. And then the next day I shakily lead a beautiful 5.8 trad line on Stiffler’s Mom, almost hyperventilating in the process. Damn… sometimes I suck at climbing! =)

Slab Master Shaft uncoiling our rope at the Industrial Wall.

But, perhaps climbing is fun due to these reasons… the extensive variety of climbs available, the continual intense mental game, the awe of watching friends crush routes that scare me .. and just the continual reminder that once I think I am getting stronger, I am quickly dished out a spoonful of humility. =)

• Plastic bags are made from petroleum OIL and natural gas.
• Americans use more than 380 billion plastic bags annually.
• The US imports 12 million barrels of oil annually to produce plastic bags.
• Plastic bags do not biodegrade.
• A plastic vortex twice the size of Texas swirls in the Pacific Ocean between San Francisco and Hawaii.
• Recycling is not a viable option. Consumption can be reduced by carrying reusable bags.
• The best alternative is reusable bags.
• There are a growing number of countries that are banning or taxing plastic bags. In the U.S., cities are beginning to do the same.

Remember that a great alternative is Ruthie Pearl . =)

The above aforementioned factors plus the continually rising price of gasoline and inflated price of consumer goods have obviously resulted in many Americans decreasing their annual travel. According to the KenRadio site I watch, “The average number of trips the typical American has taken in the past 12 months has fallen 7.3% to 5.1%.”

Source: KenRadio at www.kenradio.com

Yet…. I feel like the main question is, how often do I have the time and financial resources to take off 5 months to travel? And how often can I find a job I love that will allow me to work in a virtual environment, being flexible around my climbing schedule?

I figure the combinations of these variables is rare and so I should capitalize on this opportunity to travel. It is perhaps a little nerve racking to make a move at this time, but here is hoping for the best. I figure, if anything, hopefully the market will have started to trend back up by the time I return. =)

The H.I.P. nickname came about because as we were climbing in the Burren the weather included the usual drizzle and cloudy skies. The rain would have definitely stopped me from climbing back home in Utah, but the whole Irish crew was somehow super psyched on the wet holds. That evening the rain and wind really picked up and I quickly hopped into my down sleeping bag as the Irish team happily sipped tea in the torrential weather.  Whew… so much more hardcore than I. So from there on out I started to call them the Hardcore Irish People (or H.I.P.’s for short).

My friends Neal (H.I.P. #1… the number difference being solely because I am able to chat with Neal more regularly) and Dave (H.I.P. #2) continue to impress me. I joined H.I.P. #1 in Thailand where he just kept on sending project after project, redpointing his first 8a and continuing to be super psyched the whole time. Then this week on H.I.P. #2’s blog he posts up this entry on his first E7 (8a) . What the hell is he even holding onto on this climb?! And how in the hell is he placing gear?! You really must check out the whole post .

I seriously have no idea how he is staying on the wall with that foot and hand hold.  And I love this line, "Ignore the crap ropework… was more concerned with staying on!"

The first mono in a sequence of mono pockets. Whew… hardcore Irish people! If I read his post correctly, I believe he hit the redpoint on this climb. Congrats, my friend!

The game plan (which is completely open to changing) is to stay in Utah for the month of August to hopefully work through many of the details of these books.

In September, I am thinking about heading to Kentucky to work on this book.

Then in October and November these books.

And then, depending on how I feel, in December to work on this book.

Yep. I am pretty psyched. =) If any of you readers are also going to be on the road or just want to meet up, let me know.

That evening I called my dear friend and chatted with him. We laughed at the postal package and figured it truly had been approximately three years since we had last spoken. We quickly exchanged our past couple year life summaries and made plans to catch up for dinner for the full update after I returned from my Squamish vacation. On the way home from Squamish we exchanged some texts confirming our dinner appointment in a week’s time. And when the night of the dinner rolled around I thought I should confirm again and sent two text messages, only to not hear back from him this time. His lack of response was a little out of the ordinary as he usually was quick to respond, but I figured his plans must have changed and that we needed to reschedule.

The next day one of his siblings surprisingly called me at work to inform me that my friend had been missing for the past week and that the family had shown up to our dinner meeting place in hopes that he would appear, to only be sorely disappointed.

Over three weeks have now passed since my friend’s disappearance. The family has filled out the missing persons report, pulled his financial and cell phone records and yet have been unable to discover any trace of him. I have called him daily since I was informed of the news only to repeatedly hear the message that his voice mail box is full.

Dear friend, if you happen to see this, I sure do wish you would come home. Your postal package continues to patiently await.

We spent the first day climbing at Stone Garden and the second day at Notch Lake. Here is the CragBaby relaxing from the 2 - 3 mile hike into Notch Lake. Shaft and I later decided that CB is surprisingly the ideal crag dog. She absolutely loves to hike, can easily squeeze her way under logs, quickly scrambles up boulders, never gets too warm, dares to fight off creatures of all sizes, seems to have no fear of heights and, when necessary. can easily fit into one’s jacket.

This was our first time to the Getaway Wall at Notch Lake and it is my new favorite Uinta crag. The scenery was beautiful and the crag offered classic lines ranging from a 5.6 to a couple 5.11d’s . My favorite climb on the crag (note that I only hopped on 4 of the lines) was the Wine of Purity (5.11a) that pulled a roof and then followed horizontal crimps to the anchors. There was also a fantastic 11d, Tipping the Vessel of Knowledge, that included a roof, crimps, long reaches, jugs and a mantel all within its 4 bolts and anchors. For shorter people like myself, it also entailed a dyno. Superb!

Shaft warming up on Sport Rappelling is Neither (5.9) that we later learned was bolted by Heath. =) Fun climb with some spice from the last bolt to the anchors.

Aaron running the Neophyte (5.10b). Moves included a heel hook and crimps.

Silhouette of Aaron on Tipping the Vessel of Knowledge (5.11d).

Part of the crew: Shaft, Aaron and Happy D.

Shaft and I enjoyed the best camping food of any of our trips yet. One night consisted of delectable corn on the cob (trust me, I am a corn on the cob connoisseur) and fired baked fillet mignon wrapped in bacon (the bacon being held on with widdled sticks). The next night we had spicey sausage and fried vegetables thanks to SP. We were definitely living the dream.

The bugs were a little out of hand, which seems to be common in the Uintas, but as shown in this picture can be "killed dead" as advertised, allowing Shaft to smile in spite.

Shaft, SP, the CB-gbers, Murphy and I headed up to Moosehorn area on Sunday as none of us had climbed in this area. The climbs we were hoping to ascend were unfortunately still covered in snow. So instead we did a couple short sport routes, carried Murphy in a backpack and watched the CB-gbers chase rocks down the snow field.

Murphy, SP’s Jack Russell, joined our trip last minute. The poor thing had a rough weekend, being bitten by one of the numerous dogs, completely tuckered after our 6 mile round trip hike into Notch Lake and then had to be carried in the back pack across an exposed section at rock.

The alpine chihuahua soaked up the last bit of sun after another great weekend.

Last year I received the best postal package from my friend H.I.P #1 that included his own personal boomerang that had accompanied him in his travels. The Boom then accompanied me through my climbing adventures (for instance in Joes Valley ) and was of course included in my recent trip to Squamish. Here she is smiling across the Canadian border. This pic is for you H.I.P. #1.