The CragBaby

Shaft and I share a birthday weekend (our birthdays being only a day apart) and so have celebrated together the past two years.  Last year a crew of our friends headed down to Joes Valley for a weekend of bouldering with this year being spent striving to complete personally set birthday challenges.

For Shaft’s birthday we completed 41 boulder problems in Price and Joes Valley, split over the 16th and 17th of August.  Our range of problems was from v0 to v4, with an outlier v5 and one v7.

Shaft at the Price Boulders.  I spotted a desert whale here… he, he, he.

Me on the classic Riverside Rail.

Shaft rockin’ the mandatory cowboy hat on the warm-up.

The 18th was my birthday. Even though I had spent the previous two days bouldering I wanted to complete my birthday challenge of 28 routes in a day.  Prior to this birthday, the most routes I had done in a day was 10, so 28 was kind-of a big reach.  I was joined by a local SLC climber, starting the day at 8:30am and finishing at 10:30pm, with only an hour break for lunch.

Real smiley after the completion of all 28 routes!

I must admit I was real fortunate to have a climbing partner psyched to help me with this challenge and who willingly hung all the draws, especially since I was very powered down from the previous two bouldering days.  Our routes ranged from 5.6 (including all 3 pitches of Steort’s ridge) to 5.12b (Right Pile), mostly sport routes with a handful of trad lines.

Yes, this is a CHART of my routes.  I work in finance… what can I say?  I like excel.

By the time the night of the 18th rolled around I barely had enough energy to eat 2 pieces of pizza and take a couple sips of beer.  What a fantastic birthday weekend!

A couple weeks ago I redpointed my hardest climb to date, Left Pile. I was so ecstatic, even doing jumping jacks after the send, with an overflow of excitement that did not dissipate until approximately noon the next day.

Me drinking the celebratory Pabst that Shaft secretly brought to the crag.

Yet, the taste of victory lingers only until the next time on the rock. Left Pile was a climb of my preferred style: steep, big jugs that turned to crimps and then a fun dynamic throw to a huge sinker. But this year I am trying to expand my climbing abilities to include areas where I am not so comfortable, especially trad climbing and slab faces…. and it is SCARY!

Triznut on Stone Ground at The Millstone.

Within days of sending Left Pile, I headed up to the Millstone to be completely scared on Cat Juggling (5.10c) due to a single slab move. I finally finished the lead, but only after whining and moaning for a good 20 minutes (or more!). Soon after I went to Industrial Wall to come down early from Assembly Line, a mere 5.7 slab lead, completely scared of the possible fall. And then the next day I shakily lead a beautiful 5.8 trad line on Stiffler’s Mom, almost hyperventilating in the process. Damn… sometimes I suck at climbing! =)

Slab Master Shaft uncoiling our rope at the Industrial Wall.

But, perhaps climbing is fun due to these reasons… the extensive variety of climbs available, the continual intense mental game, the awe of watching friends crush routes that scare me .. and just the continual reminder that once I think I am getting stronger, I am quickly dished out a spoonful of humility. =)