The CragBaby

Night time in The Pit. Photo by Ken Haller.

Bishop was the last U.S. bouldering destination I visited before heading over to Europe.  It was also my favorite bouldering destination due to the superb rock quality, the immense amount of problems, but also the enjoyable and chill climber “scene”.

Best Time to Visit

Bishop is similar to most bouldering destinations where the best time to go is when temps are in the 50 ‘s.  I believe people winter here, but it definitely gets a bit cold during the true winter months.  I think the optimal months are fall and spring.

Length of Stay

I was in Bishop for 5 weeks, albeit one week was nursing a sprained ankle. I felt like I had explored the area well, yet still hadn’t even seen ½ of the areas.  For instance I only visited the Buttermilks, Happies and Sads, missing out on the other three areas covered in the book.  A visit could easily consist of a couple months, if not longer.

How To Get There

Directions to the city of Bishop are quite straightforward.  Further directions are needed to find the crags, but the guidebook includes sufficient instructions.  If still lost, stop in at Wilsons (on Main street) for directions.

Guidebook

The Bishop guidebook, similar to the Hueco and Red River Gorge books, is phenomenal.  It is called Bishop Bouldering and is written by Wills Young.  The only downside, and it is a HUGE downside, is the lack of an index.  You can either reference page numbers or download an index from here.

Classic Climbs

There are numerous are classics in Bishop, which I have already written up here.

Camping

There are two main places to camp.

1. The Buttermilks – It is free to camp in the Buttermilks plus, depending on your camp site, it is possible to be walking distance from the climbing.  Note that the Buttermilks are located higher than town and The Pit, meaning it will definitely be cooler at night.  The downside to camping here is town is 30 minutes away.  
2. The Pit – Cost to camp is $2 per car per campsite.  It is located 15 minutes from town and is the main climber hangout.  The downside is it will be louder than the Buttermilks.

I currently have two friends (Ben Grubb and Ben Sales) on a road trip in the U.S. with their current destination being Bishop, CA.  I thought I would keep up my recent tradition (started with the Hueco list) of listing my favorite problems per area as sometimes my favorites vary from the listed area classics. (Listed problems that are crossed out mean it is an area classic according to the guidebook, but I think it is one to definitely skip.)

A climber on Pope’s Prow. Photo by Frank Wu.

v0

• Unnamed on the Sunshine Boulder – (Buttermilks) This climb actually gets a v0- rating, but it is pretty scary because of the height.  It is a great warmup for the Buttermilks as it gets the head thinking for the day.
• Hero’s Roof –  (Buttermilks) Enjoyable.
• China Doll – (Sads) Highball that looks like a spine.
• Unnamed on the Small Boulder next to Leary / Bard Boulder – (Buttermilks) It is actually a v0-, but it still managed to toss me off 4 times… making me love the problem even more.  =)

v1

• A Birthing Experience – (Buttermilks) The hardest v1 you will ever try because it doesn’t take “usual” climbing techniques.  Instead you will have to start perfectly laying down and implement elbow scums.  So fun… I tried and DID NOT send. Ha ha! Perfect climb when you need to take a break and have some good laughs.
• Buttermilk Stem – (Buttermilk) A hard v1 but another good intro to the Buttermilks.
• One Pull – (Happies) Actually has a bit of a committing move.
• Immigration in The Media – (Happies)
• The Great Dominions – (Sads) 
• The Black Stuff – (Sads) Awesome! Bring pads.

v2

• 60 foot Woman Traverse – (Happies) Surprisingly hard because it is so long.
• InterSactum – (Bishop) A little tricky.  It unfortunately doesn’t top out, but good.
• Still Life – (Sads)

Doug doing a high step on Birthday Direct.  Photo by Frank Wu.

v3

• Birthday Direct – (Buttermilks) Perhaps the hardest v3 I have ever seen. I attempted it 10 times and did not send (no matter what Steve H. claims. Thanks for your optimism, Steve.) =)
• Slap Happy – (Happies) Reachy, but good.
• Solarium – (Happies) This is one HARD v3.  Wouldn’t call it a classic per se. Don’t feel badly skipping it.

v4

• Ironman Traverse  - (Buttermilks) This is the problem you often see photographed from Bishop.  Great line.
• Sucker Punch – (Happies) One move wonder, yet still quite fun.

Me on Serengetti, being spotted by Pang.  Photo by Frank Wu.

v5

• Strength in Numbers – (Sads) Tall problem, but the holds are surprisingly good.
• Go Granny Go – (Buttermilks)
• Go Granny Go Variation – (Buttermilks) The direct version of this problem probably has a harder move in it, but I liked the flow of the variation better.
• Serengetti – (Happies) 
• Pain Grain – (Buttermilks) Hurts and quite scary, but you feel like a rockstar when you send. =)  There is a v7 sit as well.
• Mr. Happy – (Happies) Sharp, but a good example of Bishop pocketed line.
• Son of Claudius Rufus – (Happies) Fun traverse.  Perfect problem if nursing a sprained ankle because it is close to the ground.
• Molly – This is listed as a classic.  I hate it.  Skip this problem!

v6

• Rio’s Crack – (Sads) This was an excellent climb.  Definitely in my top 3 of favorite Bishop climbs.
• Pope’s Prow – (Buttermilks) Technical line.  Make sure to pad up the bottom, even though it isn’t “too” high.  I did see someone rip off and really mess up their ankles while trying to do the last mantel.
• Unnamed on the Leary / Bard Boulder – (Buttermilks) Not sure why this problem doesn’t get a name because it is great.  The last move of going to the patina flake is reachy for the short person, which feels quite scary.
• Milk the Milks – (Buttermilks) This line has a biggish throw, crimp traverse and then finishes up on slab.  Perfect!
• Atari – (Happies) I did not get to climb this problem due to the sprained ankle.  But it looks so stunningly beautiful sitting up on the hillside.  Someone please go send this one for me. =)
• Strength in Numbers Variation – (Sads)
• Every Color You Are  - (Happies) Fun!
• Fly Boy Stand – (Buttermilks) Core intensive! Yes, you start at the big jug… and yes, it is still hard.
• Green Wall Center- (Buttermilks) The moves were just ok, but the face of the climb is gorgeous.

v7

• High Plains Drifter – (Buttermilks) This problem really does not need any description.  Just do it!  Or, in my case, attempt to send it… but hopefully it doesn’t also give you fellow readers a sprained ankle. =)  The line is so great, that it was worth the sprained ankle.
• Morning Dove White – (Happies) I loved this line because it was beautiful.  Unfortunately I was sick the day I stopped by and then I sprained my ankle.  I must admit that I was incredibly sad that I never got to properly work this line. =(
• Junior’s Achievement – (Buttermilks) Extremely sharp, but I still liked it.

Travis on Checkerboard.

v8

• Fly Boy Sit – (Buttermilks) This was my all time favorite climb in Bishop! Great line that flows nicely and still has a heart flutter finish.  Definitely try, but make sure to have a lot of pads.  It isn’t called Fly Boy without reason.
• PowPow – (Sads) – simply excellent!
• Checkerboard – (Buttermilks) Very aesthetic line, though quite difficult for the short person.  I was struggling to get through the middle section and the real reachy area is near the end.  

v9

• Moon Raker – (Buttermilks) I loved this line because it includes movement that just seems improbable to find on a route.  Technique needed includes heel hooks, heel-toe cam and the ability to stop the massive swing.
• Soul Slinger – (Buttermilks) This seems to be a favorite of most people.  You shouldn’t have too hard of a time finding a sea of pads underneath it.
• Toxic Avenger – (Happies) Hard, yet possibly do-able. Try it!

Remember that you are in Bishop, land of the high-ball problems.  Take lots of pads! 

Once again, I didn’t hop on anything harder than v9 meaning my list caps out at this level. Do you readers have any suggestions?  Please list up any problems you suggest in the comments. =)

As I mentioned in the previous post, after Hueco Tanks I made the 15 hour trek to Bishop, California.  I did stop in Joshua Tree, but only for a couple days and rather to rest up and enjoy the scenery than to really climb.

I was excited to roll into Bishop.  I had been there years ago, when I had first started to climb, and it was nice to come back with a little bit of climbing knowledge.  Pictured are The Buttermilks.  Photo by Frank Wu.

During the time I was in Bishop, I saw a handful of SLC’ers who had come out for a long weekend. It had been a long time since I had seen the SLC crew!  One weekend Travis and Wen made the drive and we spent all weekend climbing and laughing.  It was fabulous! Here is Travis working the moves of “Saigon”.  

Both “FlyBoy” problems, the stand and the sit, are absolute must do’s.  The sit for sure was my all time favorite problem in Bishop.  It truly was fantastic!  

A lot happened on this particular day.  Tim and I sent the “FlyBoy Sit”, while poor Steve fell from the lip and broke one ankle and horribly sprained the other.  Two days later I sprained my ankle on High Plains Drifter.  The result? Steve and I had plenty of time to hang out, sip tea and become excellent friends. I am off to visit him and Tim in Leeds tomorrow. =)

Another fabulous line, “Morning Dove White”, that starts in a sequence of pockets then finishes on what I hear is a heart fluttery top out.  Unfortunately I sprained my ankle before I could properly work this one… bummer, as I really liked the line.  Pictured is Jason.  Photo by Frank Wu.

Me on “Disco Diva”.  I didn’t make it much farther than where I am pictured. Ha ha!  Photo by Frank Wu.

My two favorite shots from my road trip were both taken by Frank Wu. The boulder in the picture above also has a v10 dyno line on the right side.  This guy climber was consistently trying it, finally sticking the line at the moment that Frank captured this shot. Unbelievable!  Can my dog be any more unimpressed?  Thanks for the photo, Frank.

Me on a tall v1 (I am currently forgetting the name).  Photo by Merrick Ales.

“High Plains Drifter” was one of my favorite problems.  The problem ends about 20+ feet up, but most people top out the whole boulder, down climbing the crack on the right side.  I loved this problem, but did not send (falling from the start of the crux).  I instead just took away the below sprained ankle.  Photo by Frank Wu.

I thought the sprain was quite mild, this picture being taken the morning after it happened.  Yet as I write this blog post it has been 7 weeks and my ankle remains a cankle.

This boulder isn’t in the book but houses a handful of excellent problems.  Here is Sunset Head working the crux of the most right problem.

MP on “Checkerboard”.  Aesthetic line, but quite reachy for us short folks.

Me working the moves on “Devoted”. Picture by Dan Brayack.

Fellow climber (whose name I did not catch) working Moonraker. I really loved this problem because it required all these fancy moves plus the crux was the ability to slow down this epic swing.  One of my most fun days in Bishop was with a crew of friends, all working this problem and jamming out to old-school hits like ‘YMCA’ and ‘Come on Eileen’.

And of course, a blog post about Bishop must include a picture of the Ironman Traverse.  A tricky v4 regardless if you know the sequence.  Picture by Dan Brayack.

My Bishop “office” and fellow co-workers. =)  Steve, on the left, is home in Leeds and I am off to see him tomorrow.  Aaron, on the right and closest to the camera, is back in Kentucky for a few weeks longer before hitting the road again.  And I am not sure where Dave, sitting behind Aaron, is currently located.

I met this crazy kid, Michael Pang, on my last few days in Bishop.  He was hilarious!  A climber, fellow working professional, who still loves to sleep in his car and happened to be camped in the same parking lot that I was in.  Ha ha.  I’m hoping to catch up with him when I get home.

I met a lot of great people in Bishop.  On this particular day I was supposed to be resting, but went out climbing solely for the reason that Prairie was in town.  Prairie and I ended up never catching up, but I made friends with an awesome group and ended up having one of my best climbing days.  Best of all, at the end of the day my cheeks hurt more from laughing than my fingertips from climbing.  Photo by Jeff Fox.

After 8 months on the road and 5 weeks in Bishop, the fingers started to look quite gruesome.  I like to pretend like guys find this attractive.