I have been on vacation for six weeks, or perhaps I should say pseudo vacation considering I do work 2 days per week. To be honest, working my job AROUND my climbing schedule is quite heavenly. =)
For the past six weeks I decided to stay in Utah, mostly in SLC, as there were still routes and crags I wanted to explore, I had a wide network of climbing partners, but mostly because I don’t know where my next job will take me.
Yet by the time Sept 1 rolled around, I started to question my Utah decision, fretting that I should have used this time to go somewhere far away. However, if the goals of this pseudo vacation are relaxation, having fun and climbing, perhaps I should stop worrying about my decision as these past weeks allowed me to do the following:
I climbed in the local canyons of Big Cottonwood, Little Cottonwood, American Fork and Ferguson. (Pictured is me at a dawn bouldering session with Severhead, Jun and Trent.)
I made a couple weekend trips to Maple Canyon. (Pictured is a SLC climber getting ready to attempt Ammo Dump.)
I visited Wild Iris, this being only my second trip. (Pictured is a SLC climber.)
I bouldered some excellent problems in Joes and Triassic. (Pictured is Shaft.)
I was able to climb 31 out of 46 days. (Pictured is me on a very cool, thin problem, with the classic sandy top-out in Triassic.)
I enjoyed the sunrise in Little Cottonwood. (On this day I was climbing Pentapitch with new friend, Tyler.)
I sent another 12a route and my first v7. Yippee!! (Me looking super serious at Joes Valley.)
I spent my birthday weekend with my great friend, while we both completed our birthday challenges. (Pictured are Shaft and I after completion of his 41 boulder problem birthday challenge.)
I checked out the Outdoor Recreation Show and watched the Mammut Bouldering competition. Fun, fun, fun!
I enjoyed many great nights out on the town. (Pictured are Shaft and I at Brian and Elise’s wedding. Whew… I was in dire need of a haircut!)
I partied it up at my old house where I watched Shaft get his a$$ kicked by the JamesMonster in guitar hero.
And I saw The Route Slayer extremely happy after climbing. (Check out the pink car in the background!) =)
Yep, I need to stop fretting. These past six weeks have been great!
Lately I have been thinking a lot about travel (considering it is my current full time focus). It is extremely helpful to receive beta from fellow travelers or locals prior to a trip. In hopes of returning the beta karma, I thought I would start posting up trip beta from places I have visited or lived.
Three guides are currently available for the Squamish area, all with their own distinct purposes. If looking to do a mix of classic routes (sport and trad) plus wanting integrate some bouldering, definitely get the Squamish Select by Marc Bourdon. If wanting to stay right in Squamish itself and climb mostly around The Chief, buy The Climber’s Guide to Squamish by Kevin McClane. If strictly bouldering, buy Squamish Bouldering by Marc Bourdon and Scott Tasaka. I happened to have both The Squamish Select and The Climber’s Guide to Squamish. Shaft and I were doing a mix of climbs, and though it was helpful to have both, I really only needed the Squamish Select for the routes we wanted to do and the length of our stay (2 weeks). Yet, I must mention that The Climber’s Guide to Squamish included a great history of the area and the Chief.
Camping
Chief Campground - most popular campground for climbers. Cost is $10 a site for drive in sites, which can be shared with up to 4 people, and I believe free for the walk-in sites. It is good to note that the campground gate is shut from 11pm to 7am. Also, it was really helpful to have a tarp and some cord to shelter items from the rain.
The Sound - there is free camping if you want to camp out of bounds. However, run-ins with giant sea creatures can become a reality.
Food / Drink
Howe Sound Brew Pub - great food, especially pizza. They have great daily specials that the server never seems to mention, so remember to ask.
Eagle’s Nest - this restaurant is a little out of the way, but is a great place for a nicer dinner if getting tired of bar food or camp pasta.
Sunflower Bakery - the usual bakery. Nice change from the usual oatmeal for breakfast.
Alcoholic Beverages - Note that it is VERY expensive to buy alcoholic beverages, especially beer, in Squamish. Customs allows one case of beer and 1500ml of wine to cross the border. It is very wise to bring this in with you.
Personal Hygiene
Showers - The Recreation Centre is the best place for showers. Cheap, fairly clean, plus includes a hot tub, pool and steam room if wanted.
Laundromat - The laundromat is a little tricky to find as it is nestled in a shopping center.
Other
Gasoline - Fuel is also very pricey in Canada, so once again fill up prior to crossing the border.
Internet - The adventure center offers free wifi if you have a laptop. If not, there is an Internet Cafe on the main street.
Currency - We had zero problems with currency and/or the dollar being accepted. However, few places take the American Express card.
Theft - Theft was surprisingly a problem in Squamish, even at the Howe Sound. When climbing at the Smoke Bluffs, park a little south at the Adventure Center rather than the designated parking spot as your vehicle will be safer.
If you readers have any beta of your own, please feel free to comment.
I received one of the kindest emails a couple months ago from a fellow local climber who had read on my blog that I was interested in hopping on some 5.12s. He had already cruised through the majority of local 12s and so sent me a list of his personal favorites. It was such an incredibly nice gesture and an email I have often referenced.
Rainbow seen on the walk down from the Millstone.
I thought that a similar listing of my favorite Wasatch routes by grade (updating this post as I continue to climb) might be of use to readers. The following routes are listed as name, grade (broken down by letter grade for 5.10 and above), location and my comments.
Shaft on Wrecking Ball (5.10 - 11) with SP on Hollow Man (5.9).
5.7 Routes
Maudlin – Salt Lake Slips, Big Cottonwood – This is a new route to the left of Italian Arete. It is long, requiring a 70mm rope and 12 quickdraws. Great for beginners.
5.8 Routes
Geronimo – S-Curves Upper Wall, Big Cottonwood – Fun!
5.9 Routes
Hollow Man – Challenge Buttress West Face, Big Cottonwood - Great warmup with fun “Big Cottonwood” moves.
Ionic Binding (9+) – S-Curves Lower Wall, Big Cottonwood – I have learned to really enjoy this climb, even though it gives me flash pump ever time I run it. I swear 9+ is one of the hardest grades. =)
There are two fun 5.9’s at Storm Mountain. The wall is newer and not in the guide book. I will update when I figure out the names and area. They are in essence right across from the small reservoir.
Goreham leading Litmus Test (5.11c).
5.10 Routes
Caress of Steel (5.10a) – The Membrane, American Fork - The foot holds are a little polished, but it is definitely still worth one’s time. An AF Classic.
Twist And Shout (5.10a) – The Escape Buttress, American Fork – This climb has a warm spot in my heart because it was my first 5.10 lead / redpoint.
Total X (5.10a/b) – The Watch Tower, Ferguson – This is a mixed route with the bottom being a 5.8 gear line with the top bolted section being a 5.10 pump-fest. Fun!
Hidden Agenda (5.10b) - Industrial Wall, Little Cottonwood - Great slab route, which means I did not lead it nor ever will. =) However, if you love slab or are top roping, definitely do this route.
Union Dues (5.10b) - Industrial Wall, Little Cottonwood - Another great slab route, which means I top-roped. If you love slab or on a top rope, this one is splendid. =)
Salem’s Lot (5.10c) – Salt Lake Slips, Big Cottonwood – Cragbaby readers might disagree on this route, but for some reason I love this line. The book doesn’t give it many stars, but I think I like it because it was one of the first 10’s I ever worked on. I remember top-roping it on numerous occasions and being scared of falling into the huge pine tree when starting to lead.
Wrecking Ball (5.10 - 5.11′ish) – Challenge Buttress West Face, Big Cottonwood – This climb is to the left of Hollow Man and pulls a roof with a couple tricky moves. Some call it a 11b, some say it is easier.
Winky and Waxman Go Bolting Extension – (5.10 – 11’ish) – Challenge Buttress West Face, Big Cottonwood – Link the Winky and Waxman line (the book says 11b, but I think it is more like a 10) with the long 5.10 line that finishes at the top of the crag. Fun and pumpy!
Cecret Lake Wall, Albion Basin, Little Cottonwood - the whole wall is a row of 5.10s, with each climb better than the next. The surrounding is a beautiful meadow with a stream by the crag.
The Route Slayer on Right Pile (5.11d).
5.11 Routes
Black Monday (5.11a) – Lower S Curves, Big Cottonwood – Uber classic! I have yet to meet a person who does NOT like this climb.
Stone Ground (11b) - Millstone, Big Cottonwood – Due to the bolting, I think this route seems hard for the grade. The moves are fantastic, but it is quite a bit heady.
Misery (5.11b) – Broad’s Fork, Big Cottonwood – The book only gives this route one star, but I think it is a fun line that includes lots of stemming. Plus it is surrounded by other great climbs.
Firewoman (5.11b) – The Watchtower, American Fork – Crimpy and fun! Seemed hard for the grade.
Primal Magic (5.11b) – The Hard Rock, American Fork – The AF guide doesn’t give this route any stars, but I really like it.
High Dive (5.11b/c) – S-Curve Upper Wall, Big Cottonwood – This is the second pitch above Geronimo. Short, sweet, and very similar to Black Monday.
Eight to Eleven (5.11b/c) – The Hard Rock South Face, American Fork – A two pitch, very enjoyable route!
Litmus Test (5.11c) - Division Wall, American Fork – Easier climb with one tricky move over the roof. A good first 11c.
Right Pile (5.11d) – The Pile, Big Cottonwood - I absolutely love this climb as it was my nemesis for almost a year. Very hard, pumpy 11d that I finally sent with the use of two heel-toe cams and numerous attempts. A must do!
Reaching for Razors (5.11d) - Hell, American Fork - Some people mention that this climb is polished (as it is one of the very few warmups in Hell), but I found it to be superb.
Mach (5.11d) – The Speed Trap, Big Cottonwood – The book gives it only one star, but I really like this climb. Note that between the 4th and 5th bolt it is quite heady as it seems a bit run-out, though the holds are all there.
Dumb Broads (5.11d) – Broad’s Fork, Big Cottonwood – Pumpy little thing!
Naked Nebula (5.12a) – White Wave Wall, American Fork - I hate the slab portion of the climb, but the actual 12a climbing is a beautiful jug / heel hook haul.
Sorry, but my list caps out at 12b as that is the hardest grade I have actively worked, merely toproping a couple 12cs. I will keep the list updated and would welcome any route suggestions from you readers.
A couple weeks ago I redpointed my hardest climb to date, Left Pile. I was so ecstatic, even doing jumping jacks after the send, with an overflow of excitement that did not dissipate until approximately noon the next day.
Me drinking the celebratory Pabst that Shaft secretly brought to the crag.
Yet, the taste of victory lingers only until the next time on the rock. Left Pile was a climb of my preferred style: steep, big jugs that turned to crimps and then a fun dynamic throw to a huge sinker. But this year I am trying to expand my climbing abilities to include areas where I am not so comfortable, especially trad climbing and slab faces…. and it is SCARY!
Triznut on Stone Ground at The Millstone.
Within days of sending Left Pile, I headed up to the Millstone to be completely scared on Cat Juggling (5.10c) due to a single slab move. I finally finished the lead, but only after whining and moaning for a good 20 minutes (or more!). Soon after I went to Industrial Wall to come down early from Assembly Line, a mere 5.7 slab lead, completely scared of the possible fall. And then the next day I shakily lead a beautiful 5.8 trad line on Stiffler’s Mom, almost hyperventilating in the process. Damn… sometimes I suck at climbing! =)
Slab Master Shaft uncoiling our rope at the Industrial Wall.
But, perhaps climbing is fun due to these reasons… the extensive variety of climbs available, the continual intense mental game, the awe of watching friends crush routes that scare me .. and just the continual reminder that once I think I am getting stronger, I am quickly dished out a spoonful of humility. =)
I daily read economic and industry reports for my job and must admit it is a little worrisome to continually read about the suffering American economy due to the credit crunch, the current financial sector being comparable to the Great Depression, IndyMac having a run on the bank (never expected to see that in my lifetime), Freddie and Fannie having to be supported by government infused funds, etc. Seems like an interesting time for me to take 5 months off to travel, and I must admit I sometimes worry about the job market when I decide to return to a full time position.
The above aforementioned factors plus the continually rising price of gasoline and inflated price of consumer goods have obviously resulted in many Americans decreasing their annual travel. According to the KenRadio site I watch, “The average number of trips the typical American has taken in the past 12 months has fallen 7.3% to 5.1%.”
Source: KenRadio at www.kenradio.com
Yet…. I feel like the main question is, how often do I have the time and financial resources to take off 5 months to travel? And how often can I find a job I love that will allow me to work in a virtual environment, being flexible around my climbing schedule?
I figure the combinations of these variables is rare and so I should capitalize on this opportunity to travel. It is perhaps a little nerve racking to make a move at this time, but here is hoping for the best. I figure, if anything, hopefully the market will have started to trend back up by the time I return. =)
Prior to traveling through Ireland in 2006 I posted up on the Irish climbing forums in search of climbing partners, hoping to hit up a couple of the crags on my visit. Dave (who I reference as H.I.P. #2) was living in Wales but had seen the post and inquired why none of his friends had yet to respond. A couple of them then reached out to me and we arranged a way to meet up and climb in the Burren over one weekend, that just happened to be a weekend when Dave was visiting from Wales.
The H.I.P. nickname came about because as we were climbing in the Burren the weather included the usual drizzle and cloudy skies. The rain would have definitely stopped me from climbing back home in Utah, but the whole Irish crew was somehow super psyched on the wet holds. That evening the rain and wind really picked up and I quickly hopped into my down sleeping bag as the Irish team happily sipped tea in the torrential weather. Whew… so much more hardcore than I. So from there on out I started to call them the Hardcore Irish People (or H.I.P.’s for short).
My friends Neal (H.I.P. #1… the number difference being solely because I am able to chat with Neal more regularly) and Dave (H.I.P. #2) continue to impress me. I joined H.I.P. #1 in Thailand where he just kept on sending project after project, redpointing his first 8a and continuing to be super psyched the whole time. Then this week on H.I.P. #2’s blog he posts up this entry on his first E7 (8a) . What the hell is he even holding onto on this climb?! And how in the hell is he placing gear?! You really must check out the whole post .
I seriously have no idea how he is staying on the wall with that foot and hand hold. And I love this line, "Ignore the crap ropework… was more concerned with staying on!"
The first mono in a sequence of mono pockets. Whew… hardcore Irish people! If I read his post correctly, I believe he hit the redpoint on this climb. Congrats, my friend!
This past week I gave my 2 weeks notice to my employing firm. I have been extremely fortunate to work for my employer and will actually continue to work with them for the next couple months, but on a part time rather than full time basis. Why? Because as of August 1st my main focus will be on climbing and traveling for the next 4 -5 months. And yes, I am super psyched. =)
The game plan (which is completely open to changing) is to stay in Utah for the month of August to hopefully work through many of the details of these books.
In September, I am thinking about heading to Kentucky to work on this book.
Then in October and November these books.
And then, depending on how I feel, in December to work on this book.
Yep. I am pretty psyched. =) If any of you readers are also going to be on the road or just want to meet up, let me know.
Shaft, SP, Murphy, the CragBaby and I headed up to the Uintas to meet up with a crew of our friends (Severhead’s rowdy bunch and HappyD’s crew) in celebration of Independence Day and Severhead’s birthday. It was yet another perfect Utah weekend of sunshine and climbing.
We spent the first day climbing at Stone Garden and the second day at Notch Lake. Here is the CragBaby relaxing from the 2 - 3 mile hike into Notch Lake. Shaft and I later decided that CB is surprisingly the ideal crag dog. She absolutely loves to hike, can easily squeeze her way under logs, quickly scrambles up boulders, never gets too warm, dares to fight off creatures of all sizes, seems to have no fear of heights and, when necessary. can easily fit into one’s jacket.
This was our first time to the Getaway Wall at Notch Lake and it is my new favorite Uinta crag. The scenery was beautiful and the crag offered classic lines ranging from a 5.6 to a couple 5.11d’s . My favorite climb on the crag (note that I only hopped on 4 of the lines) was the Wine of Purity (5.11a) that pulled a roof and then followed horizontal crimps to the anchors. There was also a fantastic 11d, Tipping the Vessel of Knowledge, that included a roof, crimps, long reaches, jugs and a mantel all within its 4 bolts and anchors. For shorter people like myself, it also entailed a dyno. Superb!
Shaft warming up on Sport Rappelling is Neither (5.9) that we later learned was bolted by Heath. =) Fun climb with some spice from the last bolt to the anchors.
Aaron running the Neophyte (5.10b). Moves included a heel hook and crimps.
Silhouette of Aaron on Tipping the Vessel of Knowledge (5.11d).
Part of the crew: Shaft, Aaron and Happy D.
Shaft and I enjoyed the best camping food of any of our trips yet. One night consisted of delectable corn on the cob (trust me, I am a corn on the cob connoisseur) and fired baked fillet mignon wrapped in bacon (the bacon being held on with widdled sticks). The next night we had spicey sausage and fried vegetables thanks to SP. We were definitely living the dream.
The bugs were a little out of hand, which seems to be common in the Uintas, but as shown in this picture can be "killed dead" as advertised, allowing Shaft to smile in spite.
Shaft, SP, the CB-gbers, Murphy and I headed up to Moosehorn area on Sunday as none of us had climbed in this area. The climbs we were hoping to ascend were unfortunately still covered in snow. So instead we did a couple short sport routes, carried Murphy in a backpack and watched the CB-gbers chase rocks down the snow field.
Murphy, SP’s Jack Russell, joined our trip last minute. The poor thing had a rough weekend, being bitten by one of the numerous dogs, completely tuckered after our 6 mile round trip hike into Notch Lake and then had to be carried in the back pack across an exposed section at rock.
The alpine chihuahua soaked up the last bit of sun after another great weekend.
Last year I received the best postal package from my friend H.I.P #1 that included his own personal boomerang that had accompanied him in his travels. The Boom then accompanied me through my climbing adventures (for instance in Joes Valley ) and was of course included in my recent trip to Squamish. Here she is smiling across the Canadian border. This pic is for you H.I.P. #1.
Shaft, the Cb-gbers and I took a two and half week climbing vacation in Squamish, Canada. British Columbia receives a fair bit of rain during the month of June, but we luckily encountered cooperative weather allowing us to climb everyday.
Driving through beautiful Oregon. At this rest stop we happened to meet a trucker who also owned a chihuahua.
The coastal views on the way to Squamish. In this area, scuba divers congregate to explore two sunken ships.
View of The Chief. While taking this picture a car stopped and the driver warned us of an approaching bear.
The Pemberton landscape.
Squamish and the outlying areas house thousands of routes and boulder problems. Shaft and I alternated between bouldering, trad and sport lines, taking one rest day to hike to the top of the Chief.
Me working ‘In Your Face’ in Pemberton. This extremely fun v3 was on the Yosemite boulder that sits adjacent the railroad tracks. The guidebook states to hide if a train is coming due to access concerns.
Shaft warming up at the SuperFly boulder in Squamish.
Shaft sending ‘Sloppy Poppy’, known to be one of the most popular v4’s in Squamish.
Me warming up on the Warm Up Traverse.
Me working ‘Bo Jo Jones’. This problem consisted of numerous heel hooks. =)
Shaft roping up for routes at the Smoke Bluffs.
Me on Ancient Heart. This climb alone was worth the 15 hour drive to Canada. The 9 bolt 11c showcased numerous heel hooks, a boulder-y slopey crux and a crimpy top out. Pure magic!
Shaft on the third pitch of Deidre, our final climb in Squamish. We had wanted to run it the day prior but were rained out, ending up bouldering instead. We thankfully waited one more day, finishing up our trip beautifully with this classic line on The Chief.
Besides numerous days of setting up ropes and throwing out bouldering pads ….
Shaft continually munched on wild raspberries.
I made a new best friend.
We happen-stanced many bear sitings, two of which included dog-bear chases. For the record, the bear surprisingly ran away on both occasions.
We spotted logger truck collision signs.
And saw the biggest, ugliest slugs!
By the time we arrived home, the sweater-clad Cb-gbers was tuckered out, a sure sign of a successful trip.
