The CragBaby

A couple weeks ago I redpointed my hardest climb to date, Left Pile. I was so ecstatic, even doing jumping jacks after the send, with an overflow of excitement that did not dissipate until approximately noon the next day.

Me drinking the celebratory Pabst that Shaft secretly brought to the crag.

Yet, the taste of victory lingers only until the next time on the rock. Left Pile was a climb of my preferred style: steep, big jugs that turned to crimps and then a fun dynamic throw to a huge sinker. But this year I am trying to expand my climbing abilities to include areas where I am not so comfortable, especially trad climbing and slab faces…. and it is SCARY!

Triznut on Stone Ground at The Millstone.

Within days of sending Left Pile, I headed up to the Millstone to be completely scared on Cat Juggling (5.10c) due to a single slab move. I finally finished the lead, but only after whining and moaning for a good 20 minutes (or more!). Soon after I went to Industrial Wall to come down early from Assembly Line, a mere 5.7 slab lead, completely scared of the possible fall. And then the next day I shakily lead a beautiful 5.8 trad line on Stiffler’s Mom, almost hyperventilating in the process. Damn… sometimes I suck at climbing! =)

Slab Master Shaft uncoiling our rope at the Industrial Wall.

But, perhaps climbing is fun due to these reasons… the extensive variety of climbs available, the continual intense mental game, the awe of watching friends crush routes that scare me .. and just the continual reminder that once I think I am getting stronger, I am quickly dished out a spoonful of humility. =)

Little Cottonwood Canyon houses numerous boulders and routes, most of which on granite rock. The majority of the routes are traditional lines with a few sport routes (one of which being All Chalk and No Action) with boulders sprinkled throughout the whole canyon. The canyon rock is known for its small features that are superb when the temps are in the 40 – 55 degree fahrenheit range, but can be nearly impossible at warmer temps, making the grades often feel sandbagged.

A couple weeks back, Shaft and I ran up to the Five Mile area as I am working smiley left. The funny thing is I almost topped out this project last summer at a night bouldering session (the least likely time to climb in LCC) but am struggling to get off the main rail with the optimal temps. Argh.

Smiley Left beta. It actually looks as if a foot hold fell off; however, I am pretty positive it was a foot hold I wasn’t using. Oh well… I will use it as an excuse anyway. He he he.. just kidding. =)

Shaft on the warm up slab.

Shaft on the Surfboard.

With this erractic weather, LCC season (especially as of last weekend) was over as the temperatures soared into the 90s. Thankfully a storm has blown in allowing me to hop on some boulders with Katie, Shaft and new friend JR on Monday. Perhaps this storm will allow LCC season to last just a tid-bit longer.

The Route Slayer on one of the warm ups. The climbing on this problem is easy, but the height can be quite mental. As Shaft would say, “It’s NOT over!”  =)

Me on the Chipped Arete Variation. Fun.

Triznut crushing “Fat Albert”. It is amazing how this climb feels so much more do–able in the right temps.

 HA HA HA! Check out the determination! This might be the worst photo of me EVER, but that look and my beloved heel hook helped me pull “Salad”, completing my second V5. I completed my third, a great undercling one at the Parking Lot, about a week later.  I was so psyched!