I had planned on staying in Le Vaudoue, a small village near Fontainebleau, for the whole trip, but felt like it wasn’t an ideal place for a beginning French speaker.  I stayed there for 3 weeks and then moved down to Lyon.

I was living in my friend’s weekend home in Le Vaudoue.  I stayed there this past April, when him and his family still used it as their full time home.  I didn’t realize the level of isolation until I lived there by myself. The best was one day when the post woman came.  I think she said something about the house being hard to find.  I quickly explained that I didn’t speak very much French and she looked at me oddly, most likely wondering,  ”What the hell is this non-French speaking American girl doing at the end of this road?” Haha.

Looking towards the Le Vaudoue house from my neighbors house.  Yep… the house is down that road, all by itself in the forest.

Le Vaudoue “main street”.  It consists of a bar, market, pharmacie and a temporarily closed hair dresser.  I love the simplicity of this place.

Hiking through the Trois Pignon area with Guillaume and his family.

My mode of transportation.  I really liked when I would stop by the market on the way home, carrying fresh baguettes and wine in my bouldering pad.

Guillaume climbing at Cancier Mercier.

David came to visit Fontainebleau.  It was his very first time to be in Font… but it had recently snowed.  He still was psyched to try at least one problem, trying his luck on this slippery problem at Roche Aux Sabot.

Since I am learning French, I will start writing some French in parenthesis.  I wanted to start with this post, but it was going to take me forever.  So… I will start to slowly integrate.

Hope you readers are also doing well.

]]> http://www.cragbaby.com/2010/01/04/learning-french-first-stop-fontainebleau/feed/ 11 http://www.cragbaby.com/2009/12/09/living-the-nomadic-life-tips-and-tidbits/ http://www.cragbaby.com/2009/12/09/living-the-nomadic-life-tips-and-tidbits/#comments Wed, 09 Dec 2009 15:54:39 +0000 WasatchGirl http://www.cragbaby.com/?p=488 Continuing on with the Living the Nomadic Life series is Tips and Tidbits.  This is currently listed as the last entry, but I presume I will have some additional posts in the future.

1. Just Leave
2. The Best Car for the Road (and its addendum)
3. What to Pack (Domestic Travel and International Travel)
4. Where to Visit – Crags to Visit as a Solo Traveler
5. Tips and Tidbits

These glow-in-the-dark dragons were one of the small “Memories From Home” items I brought to France.

There are a good handful of tips and tidbits that I have picked up along the way.  I assume this list will be dynamic over time, but thought I would post of some of the initial thoughts.

• Readily Accessible, Safe Car Camping Spots – A really easy to find, safe camping spot if traveling in the US is Walmart.  I strongly dislike utilizing Walmart as a consumer; however, I gladly parked there on my road trip when in between destinations.  Walmart welcomes car campers and often has security roaming the parking lots to ensure safety.
• Rather than Buying Books – Books can be a bear to take on a trip because they take up space and can be heavy.  Some good alternatives are…. 1) Used bookstores or co-ops – If you really must own, look for a used bookstore or coop where you can swap out books.  2) The library – Though you most likely can’t get a library card whilst you travel, you can often check out books from your home library and mail them back.  3) Ebooks – If you have a computer, you can download ebooks.  Many books are for a fee (but at least you have eliminated the hassle of books in the car / backpack), but some sites (like Project Gutenberg) provide free books.  4) Audiobooks – Some libraries (for instance Salt Lake City library) provide free audio books.  The downside is you must remember to register your card before leaving town. (The SLC Library actually makes you come to the library to register.  Why they don’t allow online registration, I don’t know.) After registering you can download audiobooks through a wifi connection. To be honest, I feel like the best solution for books is a tablet e-book reader (Kindle, Nook, etc.) because it is nice to read a book, rather than listen to it, but it is nice to put the PC away and not drain its batteries.  I don’t have a tablet book reader yet so can’t completely opine if this is the best solution… but I am longing to buy the Nook one day. Once I get one, I will of course give you the update.
• Cheap Flicks – One of the easiest ways to watch movies is through Netflix On Demand.  You must be a Netflix account owner, but then you can stream through any wifi connection.  Note, that you can only watch Netflix in the States.  The next best alternative (States only) is the Red Box, costing a mere $1 per night.
• Fueling the TV Addiction - To get your fix on recent television shows, visit Hulu.com.  If outside of the U.S. or Canada, you will not be able to access Hulu without an IP blocker of some sort.  Sadly, I still have yet to be able to stream video through a tunnel or IP blocker due to connection speeds.  (Perhaps you will be more fortunate.) Recently I discovered the site MyFreeGuide (which does seem a little sketchy) listing links to a number of sites, such as DivxDen, where viewing without VPN is possible.  Sweet!  (An IP blocker site is also ideal if wanting to play Facebook Scrabble outside of the U.S. …. just saying in case any of you readers are fellow addicts like myself.)
• Telecommunications – Skype is your friend.  Download it, use it, love it.  I am currently in France for 3 months and have now bought an online number so friends and business colleagues can actually call me from a landline and it rings my computer.  If I am not available or online, it goes to voicemail.  Perfect.  I can even send SMS texts… I also have a subscription so I can make unlimited calls to US numbers for only $3 per month.  And, of course, all calls computer to computer are free.
• Don’t Forget to Backup – If you own a computer (if traveling or not), MAKE SURE TO BACK UP!  I always have all my information backed up by Mozy.com and on an external hard drive.  I did have my computer hard drive go out while I was on my 10-month trip but lost only one day worth of photos and one spreadsheet thanks to back ups.  I backed up all my data before I left and then did small backups while on the road.  A good solution would be to carry a travel external drive with you.
• Receiving Letters While In Between Cities – If you need mail while traveling in the States, you can receive it through General Delivery.  Call one of the post offices in your current location and ask for the General Delivery address.  To pick up the mail you will have to go to that post office and show your identification.
• International Travel Packing List – If city hopping while abroad, this packing list has worked out perfectly for me.  If going on a climbing trip, this info might be useful.
• First Aid Kit - Always carry ibuprofen, band-aids and antibiotic cream.  If heading to very humid areas (China or Thailand) try and take the powder antibiotic cream.  If heading to Asia, include medication for an upset stomach.
• Avoid the Visa Headache - I have only had to worry about the visa situation once, when I traveled to China.  If needing a visa, ensure you plan waaaaaay in advance as it can be a bear to resolve.  Blah.
• Coin Purses Are Useful – Many other currencies have coins that are worth up to $2 (or pounds, euros, etc.).  As an American I am quite careless with my change because the highest coin value (commonly used coins that is) is $.25.  Yet in currencies where the value can be a couple dollars it is amazing how quickly you can gather $20+ of change in  your pocket.  A coin purse is very useful.
• Trinkets for International Travel – Take a handful of trinkets and / or postcards of your home town to give to people you meet along the way. (I got this tip from The Usual Suspect.  Thanks, Neal.)
• Keeping Track of Travelers – The easiest way to keep track of travelers, is through Facebook.  Plus it is so much more personal than a simple email address, allowing the continuation of a friendship.
• Small Items that Remind You of Home – I like to carry small items that remind me of home.  On my 10-month climbing trip I took a boomerang my friend Neal had sent me from Australia and a comic that my friend Bret had left on my door.  On this trip, I brought a handful of postcards, a letter my friend Rob gave me, and the above pictured glow-in-the dark dragons that my friend Kathryn gave me during the summer.  I notice a couple small items don’t take up much room, but remind me of my dear friends who are elsewhere.
• Scotch Tape – I think I will start carrying scotch tape with me in the future.  The reason is I always end up with a bag of ticket stubs, maps, etc. at the end of my trip that takes me eons to actually sort after the trip. (I just sorted through my China bag and I went to China in 2005!)  On my current France trip I am automatically taping these things into my journal, on the day I actually received that particular stub.  It seems to be working really well.
• Less is Better than More – The main tidbit I use when traveling is ‘less is better than more’. (I actually live by this motto as well, owning VERY few belongings.) If you are mobile, it means everything you pack is coming with you, to every destination…. which can be a HUGE hassle.  Allow yourself enough time to pack your bag (or car), rethink, and then trim down the included items.  Repeat these steps at least two times.

Any advice from you fellow travelers?

Did you ever feel unsafe? (I’m getting a lot of “You’re a woman? Traveling alone?! That far? Are you crazy?!” from various people, especially my family.)

I personally feel that traveling in the States is completely safe. I have gone on solo adventures to China, Europe and Ireland. China especially was a little interesting, but completely safe as well.

If in real rural areas, I would often sleep in parking lots rather than alone in the woods. I am a scaredy-cat by nature and so not gutsy enough just to pull over in the woods. One real good tip, that I used A LOT, was actually Wal-mart parking lots. I absolutely attest Wal-Mart; however, all car campers are welcome to sleep in the lot and security usually patrols the area.

I was traveling in a Honda Civic. On occasion I did wish it had tinted windows as I truly had zero personal space (anyone could look in at any time). I slept in the backseat of my car and would often sleep with my boulder pad jammed between the top of the front seats and the back window to kind-of provide an extra covering. (Ha ha! Writing this now sounds a little crazy, but life on the road truly is a different experience.)

I noticed I also felt safer because I was traveling with a dog. There was no way my little dog was really going to protect me, yet she would bark at anything that came near our car.

I was often asked how I planned on protecting myself. I didn’t carry anything in terms of protection (guns, knives, mace, etc). Perhaps I should have, but I just tried to be smart of where I went and where I slept. I have used this tactic in all of my travels and have been just fine.

Picture from my solo adventure to China.  Within hours of landing in Hong Kong, I met two British guys who became dear friends, traveling with them for 3 out of 4 weeks of my trip.  This day we rode camels through the Gobi desert and might be my all time favorite travel memory yet.

I get asked these safety questions a lot when I travel  and I will admit that my mother got emotional when I told her I booked my solo flight to China.  But I guess I have the viewpoint that I would rather risk it and see what happens than stay at home living in fear that something could have happened.

Lydia, just be smart about where you go and you should be just fine.

I’m not quite sure why I have been slow to post lately as I have had content just waiting in the coffers.  Oh well… better late than never.

Picture by Patrick Lionais.

As mentioned in my previous post, blog reader Lydia had sent in an email with 3 questions regarding travel.  Here is question #2 with response.

What do you think was the biggest challenge on your trip?

As a preface to this question, please note that the trip was fantastic and I would highly, highly suggest everyone take some time off in their life to do a climbing trip or an extended travel (non-climbing trip) as the experience is invaluable (I am still hoping to do an around the world trip at some point).  However, there will definitely be a handful of challenges that present themselves.  These challenges will vary for each individual, but these were the three largest that I faced.

1. Feeling Lost – It is easy to feel “lost” while living on the road. I am a very goal oriented person and I noticed I felt lost for the first 6 weeks, not understanding why exactly I hit the road. (Yes, that sounds silly.. but I definitely met other people who felt the same way.) The key was for me to make goals. Sure climbing goals were good, but I made other goals of things I wanted to accomplish. I had to look at it from the perspective that I had a 10-month break from real life and decide what I wanted to do with this time. I ended up with a list of  goals that included a number of books I wanted to read, a daily time frame to try and learn French, learning to become more comfortable with the terminal window (um, I like geeky things like that), and I focused on journaling, trying to understand patterns in my life that I perhaps wanted to change upon getting home.
2. Loneliness Sets In – I was surprised at how loneliness could just creep up out of nowhere. I was traveling solo, how I usually travel, but I had yet to do such an extended trip by myself. There were definitely time periods of loneliness. Not loneliness for a significant other, but loneliness for a friend who already knew my story: someone who already knew my job, my family situation, my travels, just me. Upon meeting people there was always a “data dump” where people asked the usual questions and sometimes I just missed the familiarity of a good friend. And even though a good friend at home should have been just a phone call away, I noticed they really weren’t for the sole reason that we were living completely different lives. Interestingly, I made new SLC friends (a couple who I had met right before my trip and a couple that just reached out to me through my blog) that had lived on the road and new the highs and lows… and these people became dear friends. (A great example of this being my friend, Melissa.)
3. Finding Your Groove Upon Arriving Home – I think the hardest challenge for me was finding my place upon arriving home. I have been home 3 months and have yet to find this groove.  I think it is because I was coming home to yet another time of transition of finding a new home, finishing one job, finding a new job, hoping to make a move to a new destination, etc.  I have had a surprisingly rough time …. but I think the takeaway is for me to learn patience and just believe that things will work out how they are supposed to when the timing is right.

Hope this helps you out, Lydia.  Thanks again for writing in.

This week I received an email from Lydia, a girl I briefly met in the Red River Gorge, as she had some travel questions.  In the past I have directly emailed a response to any questions, but have decided to start responding online in case these questions and answers might help additional readers.

Lydia had 3 questions, which I will answer in 3 different posts.  The first question was concerning traveling with a dog.

How was it traveling with CB? I’ll be traveling with my dog and doing a bit of freelance work as well, so I guess I’m wondering how everything went with you working in coffee shops and other places CB could not go. Did CB do a lot of car napping? Were you ever worried?

Traveling with CB was fabulous.  I definitely had to do a bit of planning because of her, but it was definitely worth it to have her along.  Not only is she my best friend, but it was great to have a protector of the car, even if all she could really do was warn me that something or somebody was approaching.

The Joshua Tree Office.

As far as work, I would try to work outside as much as possible so that CB didn’t have to stay in the car.  Sometimes this wasn’t possible (for instance if there wasn’t an outdoor power outlet) and so I would park my car in a shady spot (providing a lot of blankets for CB as she actually rarely gets too warm, rather too cold) and let her nap in the car.  Even though the car was a nice large space for CB, I would stop working every two hours to let her run around and go to the bathroom.  (Also, in reference to the power outlets mentioned above, there are car laptop chargers.  I didn’t own one, but will for the next trip.  A charger is approximately $30 and allows you to charge your laptop from your car, meaning the ability to drive into a wifi hot-spot and never leave your little abode.  There were numerous nights I had to stop working because the store providing wifi was closed and I was out of battery juice.)

Beau and CB hanging out in Indian Creek.

As far as climbing, certain places do not allow dogs (Little Rock City, HorsePens40, and Hueco Tanks and definitely more).  I went to a handful of these destinations, but had to plan ahead due to my little one.  I mentioned the dog issue in each of these trip betas, linked to the destination names above.

Actually my biggest CB concerns were worries a large dog owner would never experience. (Lydia, I am assuming you have a large dog but could be assuming incorrectly.)

• Keepig CB Warm Enough – My dog weighs 6 pounds and has minimal body fat.  Climbing temps are perfect in the 50 – 60 range, which is WAY too cold for CB.  Besides layering on her little sweaters, I started to bring my down sleeping bag to the crag in order to keep her warm.
• CB Becoming Prey – I constantly worried (and continue to worry) about CB being preyed upon.  One snake bite could kill her.  A big bird could easily think she was a rat and swoop down to get her.  (And yes, I truly have had both these problems.)
• Other People’s Dogs – Upon seeing other dogs at a crag, I inquire if they are friendly to which everyone ALWAYS says yes. The problem is my dog just wants to be left alone because other dogs don’t quite know what she is.  Other dogs want to keep coming to investigate or will try to play with her, usually entailing them trying to stomp on her little head.  The first introduction can be a little rough, but everything usually goes smoothly after the first minute.

CB wrapped in her down sleeping bag in Rock Town and meeting Balsam for the first time.  This is a usual introduction for CB … basically showing her teeth to say , “Leave me the f@$% alone.”  Even though we crashed at Eric and Will’s house, Balsam and CB never became great friends, I think mostly because Balsam was still a pup and wanting to play and CB is anti-social.

Thanks for your question, Lydia.  I will address your other questions shortly.  Please feel free to email or comment with any other thoughts or questions.

1. Just Leave
2. The Best Car for the Road (and its addendum)
3. What to Pack (Domestic Travel and International Travel)
   
4. Where to Visit
5. Tips and Tidbits

My idea of international travel (meaning travel where a flight is necessary) is on a shoe-string budget with a backpack on my back.  This type of travel is fun and adventureous, but it also means you get into some crazy situations and you must lug that backpack everywhere you go.

The key for this type of travel is to pack light!

in 2007 I posted up the ideal international packing list that my friend Simon and I had derived in China.  I won’t re-post this information, but instead will cover the necessary climbing items to take along.

The necessary climbing gear is, of course, dependent on the type of climbing you are hoping to do.  I have climbed overseas on 4 trips (China, Ireland, Thailand, and in a joint France and England trip) but only two of these trips were solely climbing focused.  I will write up the necessary gear for the trips I have done: Bouldering, Sport, and Hoping to Climb.

Bouldering Trip – Fontainebleau, France and Leeds, England (2009)

• Boulder pad – I did take a pad.  Yes, it was a hassle, but it gave me freedom to boulder sans partner.  Fontainebleau is popular enough place that you could easily find a fellow climber with a pad, or, if worst came to worst, you could rent one from one of the gites.
• Two pairs of shoes – I always take 2 pairs of shoes and know some people who take more.  The only time I have wanted a different shoe than the Anasazi was in Hueco Tanks, so I usually just stick with a couple pairs of Anasazis.
• Chalk bag with spare chalk – I could have easily bought chalk in France and England, but it seems easiest just to pack extra.
• Tape – I only packed one roll of tape on this trp.  At the time of this trip,  I was suffering from a sprained ankle and should have packed more tape.  I was still able to purchase tape overseas, but it was definitely more expensive.  (For instance being $15 in England! WOW!)

Steve on “The Flying Arete” in England.

Sport climbing trip – Tonsai, Thailand (2007)
Note that certain areas can be harsh on gear.  That is the case with Tonsai.  Since many of the climbs are on the beach, the rope continually has sand being ground into it and the draws (especially if left hanging on a project) get splashed with salt water, quickly affecting the metal of the draws.  In places such as Tonsai, take the time to wash your gear often.

A damaged draw in Thailand.  Photo Credit to The Usual Suspect

• Rope – I purposely took a rope that was in climb-able  condition, but I wouldn’t mind retiring.  For some odd reason I brought it home with me, when I should have just donated it to the locals.
• Draws – I can’t remember the number of draws I took because I believe that my travel mate had a handful as well.  Basically take enough to cover the longest climb, but perhaps split the weight amongst your climbing partner.
• Harness
• 2 Belay Devices – I always pack two belay devices because they don’t take up a lot of room and it never hurts to have a spare.
• Two pairs of climbing shoes
• Chalk bag, spare chalk – I went through A LOT of chalk in Thailand.  I was there on a bit of the off season and it was definitely humid.
• Tape – If climbing on a very regular basis, it never hurts to pre-emptively tape to avoid injury.

Hoping to Climb – Yangshuo, China & Ireland (2005 & 2006)
On two occasions I knew there was climbing in the area I was traveling and hoped to climb while there.  In Yangshuo I only got out one day and had to use a guide service.  In Ireland I got out 3 days, able to secure fabulous partners through the Irish climbing website.

The Burren in Ireland.  Some friends are pictured climbing in the background.

• Harness
• 2 Belay Devices
• One pair of shoes
• Chalk bag filled with chalk

Have you traveled abroad before on a climbing adventure?  If so, what did you pack?

Best Time to Visit
The best time to visit is when the temperatures are in the 50 – 60 Fahrenheit range, with the ideal visitation months being November and March. April and early May can also be good (though perhaps starting to get warm) with longer days and usually a better bet (in terms of daylight and rain) if wanting to do routes and boulders.  Definitely note that England houses gritstone and limestone, with the grit being incredibly temperature dependent.

Length of Stay
There is definitely enough bouldering to keep a visitor happy for 3 – 4 weeks.  However, it rains quite a bit and there is a possibility that you can get completely rained out on your trip.

How to Get There
If flying, the best airport to fly into would be Manchester as it’s only an hour-ish drive to Leeds or Sheffield. For Americans, it is usually cheaper to fly into London, with a drive of approximately 180 miles from London to Leeds.

If coming from Europe, there are a couple ferries: DirectFerries and Eurotunnel.  It is also an option to take the Chunnel, renting a car in England.

A car is a definite necessity and can be booked as either part of a flight package or individually through an airport or in any main city.

For getting to the crags you definitely will need a guidebook and a map!  And I would even dare say, a local tour guide.

Guidebook
I ended up with two different guidebooks (thank you, Steve, for giving them to me plus marking all the problems we did!), one covering the Peak district and one for the Yorkshire area.

‘Peak District Bouldering’ by Rupert Davies and Jon Barton (2005). Brilliant guide, beautiful layout, and really well put together.

‘Yorkshire Gritsone Bouldering’ by Steve Dunning and Ryan Plews, (2008). This is the most recent guide, though I have heard it excludes a handful of the classic problems (in particular at Caley).

If sans guide, definitely check out Yorkshire Grit as it is a free site with all the main crags and problems, maps, topos, directions, and forums for users to comment on beta, grades, etc.

Classic Climbs

I really, really enjoyed the problems in England. Every cliff we visited was fabulous with my favorites being Caley, Almscliffe, The Plantation, and Cratcliffe.  Ha ha… well, that is almost every crag we visited. =)  Some of my absolute favorite climbs were the following:

• Matterhorn Arete (v0 – v1) – highball warmup that is fabulous.  Definitely bring pads “just in case”.
• Jerry’s Traverse (v8) – Seriously fabulous line… unfortunately I needed more time to work it, therefore not getting the send yet.
• Green Traverse (v6) – must do!
• Dope on a Slope (v7) – This is the Green Traverse extension and I think is actually a bit better than the Green Traverse as it lengthens the goodness.
• Captain Hook (v8) – Good problem.. that I could not finish. Ha ha! =)
• Flying Arete (v3?) – Aesthetic line that climbed as great as it looked.
• The Horn Direct (v4) – One of the classics of Caley.
• The Horn LH Arete (v7) – I LOVED this problem, and definitely claim it as one of my top 3 favorites over the whole road trip.
• The Weedkiller Traverse (v7) – Cool limestone traverse, with a throw at the end.
• Pine Tree Arete (v5) – Yet another great traverse.
• Flapjack Traverse (v7) – Tricky little line that liked to repeatedly toss me off. =)
• The whole crag of Caley – everything I hopped on at Caley was fab.  I didn’t like the boulders near the road as much due to the noise, but the more hidden boulders were fabulous.  But now that I think about it… I really can’t think of a problem I DIDN’T like in all of England … nope, I can’t think of one.

Camping / Accommodations

I was staying with a friend, so am not knowledgeable in this area.  However, my friend, Steve, mentioned that there are some camp sites in the Peak and Yorkshire areas, plus there are Youth Hostels, and Bed and Breakfasts.

Personal Hygiene

I’m sorry but I can’t comment on this as I was staying at a friend’s house.

Food / Drink

There are a handful of great pubs and restaurants.  My number one suggestion is near Sheffield and is called Strines.  I mention this place solely because it has the oddest collection of stuffed animals for decor.  The food is good, but not nearly comparable to the excellence of the setting.

A visitor really must stop at a Chippy. How in the world can you visit England without going for Chips? In my case, I think I went at least 3 times. =) Ask them to wrap it up as a cone…

Lastly, I hear a curry is tradition after climbing, yet somehow missed out on this opportunity.

Taking self portraits in one of the local pubs.

Rest Day Activities

While resting or waiting out the rain, definitely check out Leeds (the theater there is great), take the train into London (but definitely buy tickets in advance), or enter the Huddersfield cork shooting contest. =)

Steve and I seriously had to stop playing this game because it was getting downright competitive, plus Steve liked to cheat. What the…??

The Rain

The rain was a bit demoralizing, and supposedly it wasn’t even that bad when I was there.  Often the drive time to the crag was 40 – 60m, meaning a high likelihood of different weather upon arriving (usually for the worst).  To navigate the weather, use the below links / webcams.

• Met Office
• BBC
• Met Office Rainfall Radar – shows where the rain has been and where it is heading
• Peak based web-cam

Certain areas, The Plantation and Almscliffe, dry quickly while north facing crags such as Caley do not and stay green after the rain. Caley, though, is a better option on warm days.

The links above provide insight, but aren’t perfect considering the weather is very localized. Unless it is absolutely pouring, it’s always worth a try to get out, especially in the Peak since it can be raining at Stanage and dry at Cratcliffe.

If you do get rained out, there are a couple of climbing walls that are very good.

• Leeds Wall
• Climbing Works

Or consider stopping by this home wall and giving White Spector a go. =)

Buying Gear

There are two places to get climbing items.

• Off the Wall – the shop based at the Leeds Wall.
• Outside – near the Peak district in Hathersage.  Let me just add to check prices before purchasing (reference the below picture).

I stopped in Outside to buy some tape to wrap my sprained ankle. It was my last day of climbing and I probably could have gotten away without tape. Regardless I stopped, got the tape, and handed over the money requested. I then realized the price was 10 pounds…. the equivalent of $15, 70 Freddos, 4 pints of beer, 10 meals from Tesco, or 1/3 of a cost of a London hostel. Ha ha! I would suggest bringing your own tape or stopping by Off the Wall. I had to take a picture of the most expensive tape I had ever purchased, though admittedly it was good tape.

The Best Part

One of the very best parts of England….. was…… the ‘Bouldering on Yorkshire Gritstone’ by Steve Rhodes, (1993). It was the first real guide to bouldering in Yorkshire and came out as part of the bouldering boom of the early 90’s when all of the major English crags were developed. Rather than giving classic problems stars, Rhodes rated the classic climbs by beds: 1 bed meant a good climb worth getting out of bed to attempt and 2 beds meaning it was such a classic that it was worth getting out of someone else’s bed to climb. Hilarious! =)

It is unfortunate (seriously unfortunate!) that this book is now out of print.

Additional Links

If wanting further information, the below links can most likely answer your questions.

• Yorkshire Grit – Excellent site that features all the main crags and lists all the best probs, has topos too…
  
• UK Bouldering – Simple forum-based site that I hear is good for getting trip info, problem beta, climbing partners, etc., and tends to get some very knowledgeable, helpful, and hardcore people as users.
  
• UK Climbing – Commercial site that provides trip beta and pretty extensive forums.
  
• The BMC – The British Mountaineering Council might be a useful site for additional crag information.
  

Have you climbed in England before and have additional beta? If so, please leave a comment.

1. Just Leave
2. The Best Car for the Road
3. What to Pack
4. Where to Visit
5. Tips and Tidbits

In the original Best Car for the Road post, I mentioned my friend Prairie and her van.  At the time of the post I didn’t have any pics of her van, so thought I would simply create this additional post as an addendum.

In my opinion, Prairie’s set up is a type of Dream Vehicle for the road.  It might not be as great on gas as a small car, but it definitely is more comfortable and provides some privacy.

The mini-van provides plenty of space, yet isn’t a huge beast. Prairie had it arranged so all her belongings were organized in stacks, creating a true home atmosphere.

The other side of the car, from the packed point of view.

Her bed was at the very back creating an open “room” where she could move around.

Another view of the inside.  Yep, her vehicle definitely looks a lot moe cozy than my Honda civic set-up. =)

What about you readers?  Have you done a long trip where you lived in your vehicle? If so, what do you suggest?

Horseshoe Canyon Ranch is a dude ranch that also houses a good number of sport climbs (around 250+ lines) and boulders of sandstone rock.

Best Time to Visit  

Horseshoe Canyon Ranch is a cool weather bouldering destination making the best time to visit when the temps are in 40 – 60’s.  I visited in January and definitely experienced days that were in the 30′s, with temps below freezing at night.  The best seasons to visit would be spring and fall.

Length of Stay

There is a good amount of climbing in Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and the surrounding areas.  On my visit I was there to boulder only, and felt that I had pretty much bouldered it out within a week to week and a half.

How to Get There 

Horseshoe Canyon Ranch is located outside of Jasper, Arkansas.  From Jasper, travel 7.4 miles on State Highway 74.  You will see a brown sign that says something along the lines of “Turn Now for Horseshoe Canyon Ranch” and you should immediately make a left turn on a dirt road.  Follow this road for just over a 1/2 mile, seeing two different signs stating that Horseshoe Canyon Ranch is a 1/2 mile away.  You will then come to the gate (remember to close behind you) and the road will take you right to the store where, if open, you can get all the information you need from Barry.

Guidebook

There is a Dr. Topo guide available, plus a book that is specifically about Horseshoe Canyon Ranch.  The Dr. Topo guide is almost as good as the bouldering sections of the guide, so is a good alternative for a short stay.

Camping

Climbers are allowed to camp in Horseshoe Canyon Ranch for a cost of $5 per day.  As a solo traveler,  camping at the Ranch is probably the best idea if looking for fellow climbers.  There is free camping somewhere nearby (within a 30 minute drive) but unfortunately I don’t know exactly where it is located.  Another option is to stay in the cabins.  A crew of us did this one night when the temps hit real low levels and the cost (in January 2009) was $80.  The cabins are nice and can comfortably sleep 5+ people in beds and a handful more on the floor.  Note that all animals on the ranch wander around so there is a good chance that your cabin could be surrounded by horses in the morn (reference picture above).

Wi-fi  

Wi-fi is available at The Lodge.  The Lodge is supposed to be used by cabin guests only, but Barry, the owner of Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, allowed me to use the wifi.

Wi-fi can also be found in town at The Library, which is located at the very edge of town by the car wash.

Rest-Day Activities

Jasper is a quant little town that can be explored on rest days.  There is a great little restaurant, The Boardwalk Café, that serves excellent organic foods.  There are a couple of national parks within a couple hour drives, but I did not check them out.

Other

• There are many dogs that roam through the ranch.  The guidebook suggests not to feed them and requests that climbers keep their dogs on leash.  The dogs are friendly but are very protective of their food and the livestock.
• When I rolled into Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and Jasper, I was coming in with 8 friends.  Our presence increased the population of the town by 1.6%.  This fact for some reason cracked me up. =)

If you have any additional beta, please feel free to comment or email me.

“Every week for the past thirty years I host a Sunday dinner in my home in Paris. People, including total strangers, call or email to book a spot. I hold the salon in my atelier, which used to be a sculpture studio. The first 50 or 60 people who call may come, and twice that many when the weather is nice and we can overflow into the garden. 

Every Sunday a different friend prepares a feast. Last week it was a philosophy student from Lisbon, and next week a dear friend from London will cook.

People from all corners of the world come to break bread together, to meet, to talk, connect, and often become friends. All ages, nationalities, races, professions gather here, and since there is no organized seating, the opportunity for mingling couldn’t be better. I love the randomness.

I believe in introducing people to people.

I have a good memory, so each week I make a point to remember everyone’s name on the guest list and where they’re from and what they do, so I can introduce them to each other, effortlessly. If I had my way, I would introduce everyone in the whole world to each other.

People are the most important thing in my life. Many travelers go to see things like the Tower of London, the Statue of Liberty, the Eiffel Tower, and so on. I travel to see friends, even—or especially—those I’ve never met.

In the late ‘80s, I edited a series of guidebooks to nine Eastern European countries and Russia. There were no sights to see, no shops or museum to visit; instead, each book contained about a thousand short biographies of people who would be willing to welcome travelers in their cities. Hundreds of friendships evolved from these encounters, including marriages, and babies, too.

The same can be said for my Sunday salon. At a recent dinner a six-year-old girl from Bosnia spent the entire evening glued to an eight-year-old boy from Estonia. Their parents were surprised, and pleased, by this immediate friendship.

There is always a collection of people from all over the globe. Most of them speak English, at least as a second language. Recently a dinner featured a typical mix: a Dutch political cartoonist, a beautiful painter from Norway, a truck driver from Arizona, a bookseller from Atlanta, a newspaper editor from Sydney, students from all over, and traveling retirees.

I have long believed that it is unnecessary to understand others, individuals, or nationalities; one must, at the very least, simply tolerate others. Tolerance can lead to respect and, finally, to love. No one can ever really understand anyone else, but you can love them or at least accept them.

Like Tom Paine, I am a world citizen. All human history is mine. My roots cover the earth.

I believe we should know each other. After all, our lives are all connected.

Okay, now come and dine.”

Jim Haynes was born in Louisiana, ran a bookstore in Scotland, created a theater company in London, launched a newspaper in Amsterdam, and taught media studies in Paris. Guests to his Sunday dinners have included Allen Ginsberg, R. Crumb, and Molly Ivins. Contact Haynes about his Sunday salons.